Womit stopft man am besten selbstgestrickte Socken?

To stuff a knitted sock, it is appropriate to make this process in a technique similar to knitting. It’s called needle binding. First you cut out the too weak edges. Then you start in the lowest trusted row with the Comprehensive decay to close daas hole. You always stitch through two existing stitches against the working direction and pull the sewing thread. In the first step, you stop the fluting after “below”. You stitch in the first stitch, if you have already sewn the thread beginning, down through Masche2 and up through Masche1, then join. In the second stitch down in the Masche3 and back up in Masche2, and so on. This row secures the knitted stitches and can also be worked into the weaker edge.

As you have already practiced, you punctuate against the new direction of work so that you always puncture under a crosshair of the series, or under the edges of two knitted stitches next to each other. This technique is also called Coptic knitting. The advantage is that the thread is anchored in the fabric much more reliably than in knitting. The thread can hardly move out laterally and the area of damage can not become so easily wider. Running meshes can only spread in one direction, in the working direction. In the opposite direction, the running mesh remains stuck.

The “Maschenbild” is hardly different from the knitted one, and with some exercise you can also nail left stitches. Look for the cursive terms on the net if you want to test this technique.

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Another method of building up by “near” fabric is the simple decaythe Sausage work. The “mask image” is more loose than the knitted fabric and the fabric than described above. You can also work in back and forth rows. If you always puncture the penultimate row instead of the last, then the fabric becomes more firmer and inelastic than the knitted one. The row height is also flatter and you work significantly longer on the same surface. This is only mentioned for the sake of completeness.

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This probably does not answer your question about the optimal yarn. You should get something with a material similar to the original yarn, which, however, consists of pure synthetic fibres (polyacrylic, polyamide, polyester), which is abrasion-resistant than pure wool or wool-reinforced mixtures. A yarn that looks less fluffy and feels a little firmer than the original (with the same strength) should be the right thing for this problem.