Hello Jenny here
Unfortunately I don't know how to attach this taillight bracket and indicator to the cable harness :(.
It's a Husqvarna WR 125, see pictures (I couldn't take better ones, water in my phone).
Hopefully someone can help me and please only if I really want to help myself, negative comments don't help anyone.
Best regards
Cable tree
License plate holder with light
blinker
(1 votes)
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I’m not going to get it on my own, but at least I’m not panicking that thing I’ve ruined.
Crimping is not a problem.
Buy crimp tongs, buy plug connectors, crimp, good.
The someone else with a non-legal holder (if actually bent the same) the HU exists -> does not justify any legal claim.
In addition, in 2017, it was probably passed through the HU, after which it was apparently only driven and the machine was let down… The tester then also looks exactly at every little crap. See blinker problem.
Hardenduro or like MX is also a solution – do not need HU anyway because never with road registration. Then there’s no theater with the blinkers. It’s all wrong. 😀
It is only 12bj and has only 6000km on m tacho. My girlfriend has also come through with the same license plate holder and on her dear report this was only listed as “light” defects in me as “important” defects. But I really don’t want to read and measure things again and spend a hundred thousand hours in the garage, and until a clock at night what to do, because I just have zero idea from this electronicsxD .a buyer has already found himself, then I buy myself a full cross and make a bike light on the front and that’s enough then also xD
Thank you for your help and that you were so patient! Sojemanden is not often found!! True! Who knows vllt gets a problem with the husqvarna and you have to help me again. So don’t be happy.
Best greeting
Jenny!
Blinker: There is a difference between StVZO approval and EC approval. You can look at this and then check it out:
http://www.ybrfreun.de/blog/x_fish/drive direction indicator–091105/
What is sold to accessories and “original” does not necessarily have to be legal. See straight lamp masks -> there is a lot of accessories for the terrain offered, which is not legal on the road.
License plate: maximum 30 degrees to the rear, maximum 15 degrees to the front. Retrospective. How others drive around doesn’t say anything about how they bring the machine to HU.
Do you think the machine has been treated and that there is something in the argen?
So motor and so it is only freshly made that was not only small things but very many, bsp should be the lighter too close to each other. Very strange it is the original husqvarna lamp mask with the flashers..then all wrs and sms from the series would never have come through the TÜV and the license plate holder should also be too steep.. As often as the man got the thing in the first gear it was probably the first time he drove a motorcycle. It was also in a car workshop at first stop Menden… There I advise everyone to go. Even at the ruins, I had to explain to him that the ones from work now look like that. He was so nice to say “I’d like to give you a plaque but I can’t do that.” he also asked me a good quarter of an hour about the history of the motorcycle and where I got that and so. I must push it away” xD
Oje… So “Bastelbude” as feared (or even worse).
What defects are they? Minorities can be fixed for small money and the audit does not cost the world.
However, if there are various really expensive things (e.g. steering head bearings, swinging bearings, rims damaged, brake due, engine leaking, …) -> consider whether you do not end the whole and sell the machine as a “subcarrier ohnE HU to Bastler”.
Yeah, you can go somewhere else. But if you don’t get a plaque because of serious defects -> then you shouldn’t want to drive with it from your own interest.
Do I have to go to the investigation or could I just go from “new,” guess this is now on the data of the dekra? Am I wrong? Hopefully xD
You were right it was really something about the steered lot now it goes again!
Was just at the TÜV.. A disaster!!!! According to the deficiencies of the tester, everything really examined every screw incredibly exactly that it is already unharmed! Strangely, my brother, who himself used to bring an enduro through the TÜV, said that they only look briefly about whether electronics work, so the horn also killed me. He just examined everything as if you expected a new vehicle. I never go there again. I don’t know what to do now that I have a month of time to eliminate the shortcomings, but I think I would just wait and go somewhere else:/ or sell them again
Somewhere is a mass closure. 🙁
Since it does not trigger and then -> presumably a cable is bare somewhere in the cable harness and when the machine is moved (Lenker?) it gets contact -> then the fuse flies.
What is it?
And: For the diagnosis, I purchased automatic fuses in the format of flat fuses.
https://www.rennsportshop.com/de-fahrzeug-technik-auto-elektrik- Schalter-kabel-zubehoer-sicherungen-zubehoer-034-990315-Sicherungsautomat-15A.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwlPTmBRBoEiwAHqpvhffpPCgnMYTUgLlpEtrTiLRUIeb
You don’t need all the size, but 5, 10, 15 and 30 A you can buy if you need to make something more often or – as you now – could sacrifice normal fuses in the minute cycle.
I just don’t understand that has never been done yet, now that the TÜV date is no longer possible.
Okay, thanks.
Meanwhile a new problem has evolved as expected. 😂 When I drove something last night, there was a short circuit and I could push home.. 4KILOMETER in the dark in the forest!! Well, half so bad thought I replaced the fuse (directly the first one) and now there is a short circuit again and again at the key. Sometimes it takes a little I started her then she ran quite normal and suddenly after 1 minute the first fuse burns through, I don’t understand that everything is connected and the two free cables I isolated, what can that be?
Of course, emissions are checked. If the do not fit -> no new plaque.
And, of course, if the system does not belong to the machine, it is not.
Yes, they are free in one place and come out of the same line as the license plate holder lighting, but well, everything works right. I drove last and everything went well.
Friday it goes to the TÜV I hope it works I still have a question, and so now it is not the original elbow and the exhaust but a gianelle plant with which you are open and also powerfully smokes, how, two more tactile that do so, both parts have punched in an e number, will the exhaust gases at 125er even be controlled? Or should I make the original wreath and exhaust better, and to the TÜV it would be much quieter.
Red just seems to be happening to the blinkers.
Blue always seems to be mass.
Usually not. Actually, all cables – except the diagnostic plug – should be occupied. Hm… I’ll see what this could be in the current schedule. Are they loose at one place “free” or at different places in the cable harness without connection?
All right, I was just at loius and bought the flasher relay yet fast, now everything actually works on the bike incredible but true, was right! Then next week we go to the TÜV.
Now a blue cable and a red cable are free. However, is everything occupied, is it normal that one or two cables stay “free”?
The three-pin connector in the SuperSeal case is for diagnosis. So there’s a cap on it. The workshop can connect a diagnostic device -> is therefore ok which is “not connected” in the driving mode.
So the plugs look different I have to cut the cables and crimping shoes on them, at least the one from ebay of loius.de looks as if I can do that on it.
How to expect (hehehe) has formed another problem and so now all cables are covered up to two they are at the back of the flashers and are red and blue.
A three polig he plug is still free https://ibb.co/Smn4cbZ the one here.
I’ve already got the matching piece so the color of the cables suggests that it’s ecu unit interface, but now I don’t understand that only two cables are free that I’m supposed to close. Is that all? Or I’m gonna change something
So best daaank again I am sure this will be the last problem :D!
It’ll be fine. The plugs are the same, so you don’t have to change anything on the cable harness?
https://imgur.com/a/9QjmWN4
I found the one that got 2 plugs so I was the one I randomly searched out right. I order this one and hope this works
There’s always only one flasher. So don’t buy four flashers.
https://www.600ccm.info/1/131030/Ein_lastunabh%C3%A4ngiger_Blinkgeber_f%C3%BCr_die_GSF
If the original indicator has two ports -> buy load-independent indicator with two ports.
Has he bought three -> one with three.
If possible with the plug from the original flasher -> then you don’t need to do something on the cable harness again, but just plug it around.
Yes the screw on the horn I have already loosened, there is nothing I best order a new one.
The original flasher has only two cables, then I can order and connect four relays.
That would be cheaper than buying a new flasher set now extra. Does that really work? How to connect the relays?
The indicator should fit the machine. So buy one that fits from the connections. Does the original have two or three connections?
If further functions in the original run via the flasher (e.g. Warnblinker) -> a simple replacement is then not possible.
Then load resistances (one per page) should be installed parallel to the blinkers.
Does the horn have a small screw in the middle? If so, let’s go. Maybe it’s just wrong (or it’s dirt in it). You get such a horn for approx. 10 euros, that is, no great financial effort.
I have just noticed a question that the flashers are far too fast, it’s LED flasher and apparently not the right ones, it’s true if I install this relay that will flash normally https://www.ebay.de/itm/12V-2Polig-Motorrad-Lastunabhangig-LED-Blinker-Lampe-Flasher-Relais/392269327390?hash=item5b5512ec1e:g:S2QAAOSweTlcod0W
Does that really work?
If so, how do I connect them?
Best daaaaank!
But I’ve learned from it, and I’m looking for friends too.
Yesterday night I took off the tank and just wanted to clean there I actually found the two cables for the horn!! Unbelievable but true. that saved me a lot of work. 😂😂😂
I’ve already connected them and at the switch it’s just a “piep” so it just pulls up a bit and that’s what I’ve made a nine-volt battery with two cables to the horn and that’s exactly the same sound. Can it be that I broke the horn? Can I test it right before I buy a new one?
Oje… Whoever is only driving on the farm -> there was probably really only driving and not waiting. 🙁
I hope this won’t be a barrel without soil for you. 🙁
All right, I got the cables extended! I have stood in the garage for a long time and I believe it” solved “the two free plugs I have connected to the speed sensor from the vr and meanwhile show the also kmh in the tacho.. D! Then there are only two wires left and I ordered an ohmmeter and watched if you press the switch but nothing. I’ve already made a new fitting and looked. I don’t think that both switches are broken. Guess the two come to the front wheel brake levers that there are still two wires free.
Strangely, now all the cables are properly connected at the front and nowhere is a gray cable for the horn even if it comes from the fitting :(I got a ball horn and hope I get so bad :/
Duration horn: These are then either the wrong lines (da continuous plus) or the switch is really defective.
If it’s difficult with the colors -> get one without misunderstanding. He can say what it is for colors.
Yes, you can also use a cable with green insulation. It would be more beautiful if it were the same colors as in the cable harness… But you can’t have all the colors at home.
https://ibbb.co/YLpQSXR
https://ibb.co/V99RzFb
Photos completely forgotten (if you can see what)
Ups yes now I see the legend too, sometimes I’m something great:D
So today I would have some time again and have tried to trace the lines back, so my red green weakness does not help me anymore I found these two cables on the photos that look gray and green black for me, which I have connected to the horn and it even makes a tone but the problem is continuous as long as I keep the two cables on it. Is it possible? The switch in the bucket? Or, now, only electricity is supplied, and that’s why the stops sound.
I still have a question if I want to extend cable then I can just take copper wire found a meter of green wire and make it blue and thus extend it? Are there any copper in it?
Thank you
G/ BK == green/black –> so green-black striped
GR == grey –> so grey
It’s in the legend.
For whatever the lines were -> most likely not original. Therefore follow back until you see a color-coded line with which they are connected.
So I bought it from a friend and this is always only driving around on their farm that has now been stuffed I don’t think it had until recently TÜV, but why that doesn’t work I also don’t know, I found the current schedule from the repair guide that is on this left, the horn is number 15 so “HORN” https://ibb.co/RpskTYX
https://ibb.co/GFs1ccF
I don’t know what this “GR BK” means:(I still took a picture of the current stand in the photomask
https://ibb.co/Jsy6Nhp
Thanks for the help again
Eieieiei… not just because Easter is.
“Simply connect” is never good. These are only compounds of mass and were no longer necessary after conversion (?).
Please get the power diagram of the machine -> then you have the color encodings of the lines (provided it has not been used everywhere – to say not ambitiously cleaned:( ).
So the horn was nowhere connected that is a 12V horn and the cables were loose in the light mask, and these were the only two loosen therefore I thought those belong there, they are both in black but unfortunately it is not, properly crimped and connected I have noticed each case, I was very careful
I was traveling with the machine for the last 4 days, so see your answers/questions now
What was previously connected to the horn or lines?
In the repair instructions of the moped have the hupe connected to the other plug, see picture does that make any difference?
https://ibbb.co/WxcS5JP
So I actually managed to crimpen and connect the backlight and it even shines!
Did it also try on the horn but unfortunately it doesn’t work anyway, so I used the same plug but unfortunately you don’t hear anything, the cable from the cable tree is also connected to another plug, did I do something wrong there?
On this left are for pictures
https://ibbb.co/C1czVWK
https://ibbb.co/MsWVFNR
https://ibbb.co/jDDVZdB
https://ibb.co/pRcPKcS
Boil the ends of the cables. Put it in the sleeve and then crimped. Normally, no insulating tape is necessary.
Thank you, I’ll just get the round plugs. So this with the crimping of the cable on the plugs, did I understand, but we just connect the wires then?Simply hold on and isolier tape over it?
I’m sorry I ask so funny questions xD I do this for the first time and I don’t know anyone who can.
Thank you
End sleeves are end sleeves
Connectors are connectors
Shock connectors
What all three have in common: you must fit the cross section of the lines. I’m going out of it that there are 1.5 mm2 lines you have there.
But again back to “what should I take?”:
If you want to dismantle the blinkers again -> Take Connectors.
Usually you take round plugs with the flashers. I just picked everything out at Reichelt, but you’ll find something else:
https://www.reichlt.de
The counterpiece:
https://www.reichlt.de/rundsteckhuelse-0-5-1-5mm-red-vt-rsh-r-p231398.html?&trstct=pos_4
Or if you want to crimp it hard:
https://www.reichlt.de/stossadapter-0-5-1-5-mm-50-stk-rnd-465-00104-p196164.html?PROVID=2788&gclid=CjwkccblBRB_EiwAFmfyyy9A2dIWQexUR6u2fV1BWNXD96euzhB
The round connectors for 1.5 mm2 are also available in other colours. The color of the plug is actually no matter -> the lines are coded via the color of the insulation.
Thank you very much I ordered the pliers but I don’t know exactly what are these https://report.check24.de/pliers/knipex connector-unisolete-97-99-050.html?utm_medium=glp&wpset=google_shopping_01&bc=pt&gclid=CjwKCAjwkcblceBRB_EiwAFmfyy9WdHOG46dQ or do you mean these aderendhoes?.
It’s all right.
What I did: A few common colors concerned (20 meters of rollers) and I used to patch or repair cable harnesses.
Extend as connect: either crimping plug connections or crimping the lines directly.
Example of such a solution:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTOqpB1rSak
Okay thx I’m gonna get this, I got another problem, and for blinker cables, how can I extend it? (sry that I am annoying)
Ouch, liar clamps.
I can’t really see what in the pictures.
In the backlight 3 cables should be present, minus, light and brake light. Which cable colors don’t know.
Each blinker should have 2 cables, per minus and blinker li&re. At the cable harness I come to 5th minus, light, brake, flasher li and flasher re. Also possible that minus is present three times.
This is what you need to try when electricity has and connect it accordingly. Minus could be black, turn on light and hold the contacts of the lamp to the terminals. There’s something going on. You get closer to the solution by testing.
Okay, but what do you think you’re glowing something? 😀
Well, you’re holding red and black the backlight to different connections while the light is switched on and you’ve found what lights up. Then you try other cables, other lights (use the brake for example) and get closer to the solution by testing.
Not every blinker necessarily has two cables. In some cases, the mass must also be attached to the frame somewhere
I didn’t mention this option to insure the FS. I wouldn’t have had enough cables in answer. But don’t skie to be like that even after picture.
Just wanted to mention it because I installed such flashers before yesterday
OK thank you