Why does my soldering iron tip stop working after a short period of use?
I got a soldering iron for Christmas, and after about 10-15 minutes at a temperature between 200 and 250 degrees Celsius, the tip of my soldering iron stops working. That is, I try to melt the solder, but it doesn't melt at the tip anymore. (If I put a new tip on it, it only works for a short time, too) and a higher temperature doesn't help either. What am I doing wrong? Or how can I repair the tip?
(1 votes)
Loading...
a soldering iron tip must be galvanized and cleaned before each soldering process. Otherwise she won’t accept tin. Clean ONLY with a slightly moist viscose sponge. Steel wool, sanding paper etc destroy your tip completely. The quality of your soldering iron depends very much on this. The whole noname China Böller are all the same and do not last long. My recommendation: a used Ersa or Weller Station. You often get cheap on classifieds and co. If you have the money, of course you can be new. I’ve been soldering for many years with an Ersa MS60c with the same lace for over 10 years. Care is extremely important when soldering. Strip off the sponge, apply tin, solder, put back. After soldering, do not wipe. Rewind a new tip before switching on with soldering tines and then turn on. That’s how she gets galvanized.
I’ve already brazed a few times in, for example, internships etc… but there was also one of Ersa. this is actually a NoName soldering iron, because my family probably just entered Amazon soldering iron, and bought the best or the cheapest… so I think. How can I save the tip now?
what I can recommend is an old weller magnastat. Depending on what you find. Both top quality.
There I can only advise you to send the thing back if still possible to give you the money, and get you used ms60c. I shot my then fuffi incl. 8 full roll tin in small displays. You have a stop for life. The China tips cannot be used, have also worked with such a nem part and would definitely look at me as a soldering professional. Shit.
are such lace universal compatible? or can I simply insert an Ersa or Weller tip into my soldering iron? because the piston itself works yes
Look here: Just found at #Kleinanzeigen. What do you think?
https://www.ss-anzeigen.de/s-anzeige/loetstation-ersa-ms-60-c-loetoskop-technik-loeten-basteln-handwerk/2640193154-84-2434?utm_source=copyToPasteboard&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_medium=social&utm_content=app_ios
the tops for the model still get today, but I just don’t remember the number. It was written. It was a long time ago 😅 But I called Ersa and got the number within a few minutes.
No, it doesn’t work, it has to fit and sit. also the soldering piston is often badly built here, quickly burns through continuous operation and often has no beautiful heat distribution.
Unfortunately, you can’t see from your writing whether you’re trying to “melt” or that the soldering tin just won’t stick properly at the top.
For example, I prefer so-called “teacher tips” and not the “lead pin” similar tips.
With these bite, flat tips, you can transfer more heat in terms of area and soldering is easier.
In addition, there are refined tips (long-life), which lessen or form a layer due to the heat. Mostly, however, only with the better soldering iron models such as ERSA or WELLER.
I can only agree with that! I even soldered smd without problems. The quality of the top is the A and O. Ersa, Weller. The whole construction market and Amazon Kram is nix.
DANK for your approval.
So the problem is that at the top which was still silver at the beginning, that is also melted. only now it looks like oxidized silver (if you know how I mean) and at the place where it looks so oxidized no longer melts. if I keep the tin 1cm further up to the tip it also melts quite normal as intended.
Is this a “simplified” soldering iron without real control like this (because I also have): BASETECH ZD99.
Here you can see because of the size that only one transformer is installed without real temperature control.
The rotary pot only regulates the output voltage with which the heating element is operated.
Thus, no real temperature control, the piston usually heats higher, the tip descales (dark deposits) and there hardly any heat or soldering tins are no longer adhering.
Since the transformer is then not automatically controlled down, the piston is heated further and can be higher than optically adjusted on the controller.
I think that I will only use this piston as a “second” solder in the office and then buy a “simple” ERSA station like the soldering station in the “right” soldering area.
In the middle of the 80s, I did my electronic training only with an ERSA 30. Never had any problems with that. Now as a pensioner and now living in Israel, I only wanted to praise a few small things, bought some in the retail trade for 20 euros, and ERSA unfortunately did not give. The result was disguised. After the fourth loetcobe that landed in the special mullet, I decided that an ERSA 30 must come back. Friends brought the extra for me from Germany.
After that, I never had any lot problems again.
I read 200 – 250 °C.
Does that mean that the soldering tin melts below and above?
If yes: Temperature control defective, complain!
Yeah, that’s a possibility.