Which is the best aquarium water conditioner?

Line water generally does not contain chlorine. In addition, chlorine is already out of the water when the tap water is blown over the shower head into a bucket. Otherwise, the required alternating water is already prepared in buckets in the evening. Thus it can “gas out” and already heats up to room temperature.

Heavy metals must not contain our tap water. If you live in a very old house with still very old lead pipes, you can run a few liters (about 5) into the drain before use. If you still have copper lines and want to go safe on number (especially in shrimp), you only use the water from the cold water line and pour heated water in the pot or kettle to get to the right temperature.

Otherwise, water heaters are rather bad for the fish. The main active ingredients are chelates such as EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetate). The material is used as a preservative in contact lens care products or as bleaching agent in paper production. To bind chlorine, fixing soda (a LYE from the photo lab) is used. Effect: Is no chlorine in the water (as usual), then the guide value of the water (I hope you know what this is?) goes up – bad for most fish!

If chlorine is initially present (due to disinfection in the waterworks), then sodium chloride, ie sodium chloride, is formed (chemical reaction). It then increases the salt content of the water – also very bad for most fish.

The statements, “good for the mucous membranes”, “protects gills”, “prevents stress” etc. – are therefore rather smooth untruths (because exactly the opposite is the case!), only intended to draw the unneeded beginner out of his pocket.

Those who spend money on such superfluous and even harmful stuff should once again deal very intensively with the theory of aquariums, in particular with water chemistry.