Welches Objektiv für Sportfotografie bei Nacht/ wenig Licht?
Hallo, ich stelle mir die Frage welches Objektiv am effektivsten für Sportfotografie bei schlechtem Licht ist, wobei man aber nicht direkt vor der Person stehen muss um eine gute Aufnahme zu bekommen.
Ich fotografiere mit einer Canon eos 77d womit ich auch sehr zufrieden bin bei guten Licht, aber daher dass ich das noch nicht so lange mache bin ich in dem Gebiet low light noch nicht so erfahren, zu der Kamera habe ich das 70-300mm Objektiv von Canon. Da geht diese Blendenzeit ja nicht so weit runter dass es hell genug UND scharf ist, das ist eigentlich das Problem.
Hat da wohl irgendjemand einen Tipp? LG 🙂 (PS: Ich muss nicht so weit zoomen können wie bei dem Objektiv was ich bereits besitze)
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Hello
1.) there are no specific sporting events in the “darken”, the minimum brightness for sporting events is 800 to 1000 lux on the “ground” or because player jerseys or sports equipment (ball, goal posts, rackets,) sponsors prefer 2000 lux than just 1000. 2000 Lux is the minimum brightness for TV/Broadcast. At second league football up, however, you’re banging in for Slow Motion 5000 to 10000 lux. At sporting events, the referee or liner takes a luxmeter and measures the brightness before it starts the game at all. There’s no league game in the dark.
In training or school sports, power is usually saved there are 300-600 lux. The faster the sport the more light is needed, so chess games are illuminated differently than table tennis.
1000 Lux results by light value 8 on zone 5. Most prosumers and middle class DSLR/DSLM can handle this in the hands of Autofocus Knipser. For a professional this is not a topic that works not with Autodooffocus but with “Focus On” and Full Time Manual Override. For this, the DSLR needs a Pentaprismensucher with a matte disc, the 77D does not have.
2.) the EOS 77D was designed as an all-rounder/studio camera but not for sports reportage. The 77D of 2017 can, however, in principle with professional optics, be as good or partially better as a 5DIII or 70D of 2013. Technical progress (DiG!G 7). Problem is you do not see the sharpness in the viewfinder at/before recording you have to “blind” rely on the camera displays
3.) for 200€ budget, there are only one handful of sensible optics I advise to combine;
these are real ring USM optics (so not a slow Micro USM) that work almost as fast as L optics and the image quality is good/usable to APSC for sports reporting already from the open panel. The “Ramping” with almost 1nm light value can be captured at RAW/CR2 or you simply work at Blende 4.5.
Better of course
4. The EF 70-300 IS USM has arrived at 135mm focal length on aperture 5.6, transmission at 300mm at T 7.1
The EF 70-300 IS USM II has arrived at 175mm focal length on aperture 5.6, transmission at 300mm by T 6.8
The EF 70-300 DO IS USM has arrived at aperture 5.6 at 100mm focal length, transmission at 300mm at T 7.1
The EF 70-300 L IS USM has arrived at aperture 5.6 at 200mm focal length, transmission at 300mm by T 6
5.) bright enough and “sharf” you have to analyze by exif and focus point display when you turn the ISO of the camera up, the resolution power of the sensor decreases in the direction of the image rectangle, but the image is not “unsharf”
But light value 8 results in aperture 5.6 x 1/250tel closing time around ISO 6400 which is quality still in the full format range of newspaper printing.
If you are not photographed professionally, the 70-300mm is also enough, and you just need a bite with the ISO high. You can then iron it out on your PC with good noise filters like Topaz Photo A.I.
Professional photographers generally use the Canon EF 70-200mm 2.8L IS III USM, for that you have to grab deep into the bag, it costs around the 1100-1800 used with dealer warranty.
Alternatives are used by Sigma and Tamron under 1000€. By private cheaper.
Used Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM SPORT – Canon EF Compatible | MPB
Used Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 – Canon EF Compatible | MPB
The only sensible tip of me – on the ISO screw
LA
The lens with the greatest light intensity (= small-sate aperture number) you can get.
Are of course (as should be different) the lenses with the highest prices.
Sigma 120 – 300 mm 2,8
Or Canon 70 – 200 mm 2,8
I’ve already got that from Canon, what could it be that I can’t set my camera to 2.8?
You wrote that you had the 70 – 300. And that’s the smallest aperture 4 – 5,6.
It is useful to specify an approximate price range. Your response to my demand is very misunderstood.
Maybe you add your question to the point? Look at the question below, you can click a button.
Can you spend over 1000 euros? Nova2040 e.g. assumes.
You know, photography can quickly become very expensive. This is a price presentation important for good answers.
I’ve actually even had a budget just wanted to inform me first 😅. I don’t know where the number comes from.
You must have misunderstood that. I just wanted to inform myself my budget is not fixed
Yeah, it’s gonna be hard. I thought you couldn’t see it.
See Answer to demand
Well, the budget wasn’t there at the time of my answer.
But yes, that’s not even what’s needed.
Must sell other objects.
Your budget is 200 euros. You answer to demand. It’ll be tight.
Must call the lens.
If it’s a zoom, then it doesn’t have the smallest aperture over the complete zoom range.
At the 70 – 300, for example, means that you have 70 mm aperture 4 but at 300 mm only aperture 5.6.
With the two mentioned you have 2.8 over the entire zoom range.
However, the sigma is quite unpaid, which is why only the canon remains if you reach 200 mm.
Otherwise, there would then be only strong fixed focal lengths.
Hi.
Probably defective. Have you already questioned the dealer or seller? Or in a forum?
Please call the lens you mean. Zoom or focal length?
Maybe it has 2.8-4.0? Then 2.8 only goes with certain focal lengths.
Sorry got it confused 😅, I got another place where the screen is smaller and that’s not going.
Needs light intensity and/or a good body that can handle higher ISO.
These are the expensive light-strong lenses, up from 1000 EUR.
Look past SIGMA, there’s the Art series.
Blend, shutter time and ISO… These are things where you need to understand… These are your set screws.