Welchen Polarisationsfilter?
Hey 👋
Ich suche für meine Kamera einen Polarisationsfilter. Auf Amazon wird man davon aber regelrecht überschwemmt..
Beispiel K&F. Wo ist der Unterschied zwischen dem Standard und dem Pro Modell? Kostet ja schließlich über das doppelte..
Kann mir jemand da helfen?
Hello
K&F shows the differences according to usual marketing. All that the Pro filter can be a feature is not in the standard filter. This means all K&F CPL filter types under the Nano XS “True Color” have/generated color shifts or “color patterns”. Therefore, from my point of view, “senseless” for the receiving side, but can be used for the lighting. It is clear that in the post-process, chromatic aberrations can be “work away” by filter. But this costs time and money or a graphic/designer calculates 50€ post-process hour from which a cheap fitter for 30€ instead of 100€ can entail several 1000€ post-process costs.
Compared with cheaper K&F CPL filters, the Nano XS True Color has the following more visible properties:
The Nano XS Pro version also has the following “Extras”
first you have to define what you need or want to use pole filters. The camera itself does not need a pole filter
Polfilters have huge price differences. For brand name products, it is usually technically due to different products/quality. For low-cost brands, this is usually only different versions, different glass qualities, different remuneration, different marketing.
In principle, you don’t have to worry about brand products that you don’t have the best possible version and optical glass. Then, however, the remuneration comes where each brand has its own philosphie or its own products. The best remuneration on the market is Pentax SMC and Zeiss T* (in principle the same technique). But these are “small series manufacturers”. Canon zb can “strip” a SMC-like compensation only for professional optics and professional filters for Cine but not for 10 million subclass until mid-class optics a year. The SMC/T* compensation of a 50mm (2″) Ronde costs around USD 2 in locations with cheap electricity. The cost of SSC compensation is in the cent range and takes only a few seconds.
20+ rewards are often marketing humbug that is often the hot one to dip the glass 20+ times into the same “tunk” to get to the necessary thick layer. In the event that someone takes the thick layers.
In the case of mid-class or cheap manufacturers, there is usually not simply the “best” but a product range of different qualities with different service lives.
In principle, most amateurs first buy a cheap filter and 90% of the buyers are satisfied with that the others will eventually buy themselves high in the top class. So I’m not selling a professional filter to an amateur, but a solid middle class filter that works well and has long service life. At K&F, you just have to buy a “Pro” filter that is probably not in the professional league, only K&F is marketed as a top class filter of the brand.
The K&F “Pro” filter builds/sold is of course marketing. No “professional” would buy/use a K&F filter for a paid order out of K&F pays the professional “pain money” for it or compensates for damage, which is today influenzer marketing. But professionals do not only work in the high end or you often have an azuubic/practice equipment that you can write as a total loss. Because interns don’t make a 100€ filter on it because they are then stretched and scratched with spitting when cleaning, or they push the camera on a door frame and destroy filters.
Not every Knipser needs a 200€ real high-end professional filter because he won’t even see difference to the 15€ subclass filter “see” or ever. Because difference between a 15€ and 30€ filter looks and feels/hearses an amateur, but he comes out with a blind dog in there shop.
One more tip does not buy a “video filter” for because Vidoeoinset usually eats as much resolution that you like to use as a portrait filter because of the light softar look. In the case of a landscape photo or arrhythmia, the filter is too “soft”. Video here up to the 2000s maximum SD/DVD quality since the soft filter had not noticed.
In the past, “photographers” went into a photo shop one could “consult” the customers there and if one gave customers a cheap filter (Hama) middle class filter (Hoya) and Proffilter (B&W) side by side, most in the shop have “see” why the filters differed costs after 2-3 seconds. But you just need a direct comparison. The photo vendor also knows all products in the store in and out and their weaknesses and strengths. This was also quite simple the professional division had 10-20 years of product cycles you also knew how a B&W filter developed over 20 years of professional use and how a Hama was hiding from amateurs with Putzwahn after 20 years.
Hey, thanks for the detailed answer. I probably need to read 2x to understand everything xD
I’d rather use the camera in a hobby way and bought it a few days ago.
Photographing myself is fun, but how much I put this into the professional or whether I leave it as a hobby is not quite sure yet.
My father meant right after the purchase, I should definitely buy a polarization filter, he photographed a lot as the contrasts are more beautiful and mirroring is reduced/removed.
Since I’m just beginning to deal with the topic and I’m still a “noob” wonder if I should only buy a filter for 30 Euros or save some more on a higher quality product, especially after your detailed explanations of the differences?
As a camera, I got a Sony a6000, so the filter doesn’t have to be as big as 40.5mm
Hello
So I photographed privately for more than 50 years with pole filters as a “standard filter” on almost all optics or that was earlier with a reason final to switch from measurement seekers to SLR.
Polfilters make foliage as well as the grass richer and as sky blue as in movies. The effect cannot be (still) assembled in the post procedure. Pol filters enable contrast control or can “divide” contrast. The influx of autofocus power
If you think in the long term
The K&F filters come from Fotoworx (Vancer, Inc), Seagull and Zomei (Xuzhou, Inc). You’ll find Amazon and Epay at half price.
The K&F Nano XS “True Color” has almost the same fingerprint on the filter film as Benro, B.I.G, Gobe, Hama, Kaiser, Meike, Neewer, Walimex, Zoomei. I couldn’t compare the versions.
The filter discs all come from the same OED, are only remunerated differently. Pol filters are in principle produced in the pure(st) space such as silicone wafers.
The Nano XS filter is “medium class” and rather for daylight motifs because it “builds” punk-shaped light sources (the light peaks “puschelig”). What makes sense only a few photographs at night with light-free pole filter
But it is better than the Polaroid or Amazon Basics (probably both Seagull)
With a 40 filter on the optics, the extremely stubborn I use 55mm filter on the optics with a step up of 40.5 to 55 (from 5€ plastic from 10€ of aluminum). The 55 filter is often cheaper than the small filters below 47mm.
Or you can buy the pole filter with rotary knebelstummel
There are linear and circular pole filters. For modern cameras, digital and analog autofocus cameras you only need circular. The price difference lies in the processing quality. Cheap filters from China have an anodized aluminium version, which sometimes tend to get stuck in an aluminum lens thread. Good German and Japanese pole filters from B&W, Heliopan and Hoya have versions of black chromed brass. In addition, the cover glasses are better ground flat than with the cheap China filters and the polaristion effect is better. Good pole filters are tempered, very good are even multilayered.
So I need to make sure to buy a circular filter at my Sony a6000?
Yeah, you have to.
the filters for analog cameras work differently than for digital cameras!