Welchen Gebrauchtwagen als Erstwagen? Ratschläge und Tipps?
Hallo Leute,
in naher Zukunft möchte ich mir gerne einen “Erst-Gebrauchtwagen” zulegen. Derzeit nutze ich zwar ein PKW, jedoch ist dies nicht mein eigenes und deshalb geht ein weiterer Schritt in Richtung Unabhängigkeit ^^! Ich kenne mich Rund um das Thema “Auto” gut aus, aber eben nicht so gut wie ein professioneller Kfz-Mechatroniker.
Nun zu meinen Fragen:
1. Welche Automarken sind allgemein für “Erst-Gebrauchtwagen-Nutzer” am ehesten geeignet (momentan tendiere ich da zu Škoda oder VW)?,
2.Welche allgemeinen Ratschläge und Tipps habt ihr für mich bei einem Gebrauchtwagenkauf (einiges hatte ich mir bereits im Internet durchgelesen, aber ich freue mich ggf. auf neue bzw. weitere Ratschläge und Tipps)?,
3.Wie viel Euro würdet ihr für einen “Erst-Gebrauchtwagen” maximal ausgeben (“normale Ausstattung”, ohne viel Schnick-Schnack. Im Internet stand: 5000€ bis 6000€)?.
Besten Dank soweit für eure Hilfe!
GreetzZ | Ruffy2018 🙂
(1 votes)
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1:
With which brand you are best served at the used car market is a question of your requirements. While driving a new Audi A6 yourself, you have to look at oil problems enormously (and you don’t see them when buying)…. To recommend a brand or even a model, you should write more facts, year of construction, max. Mileage, car size, car power, petrol or diesel,…
2:
• Check the paint for repainting.
• Let the car up on a lift and watch the car from below (Rost, wear,…)
• If you buy it from a dealer, ask who drove the car before. Can tell you a lot about how the car was treated or driven.
• Only buy a car which service was maintained (mostly at the contract workshop).
• Test tires for wear and damage
• Check the brakes well and ask when they were renewed last time.
• Take enough time during the test drive and take a look at the car without a seller.
Everything else I think is self-evident.
However, I would never buy a used car from a private seller.
3:
For a used car I would max. spend 25,000€ with a maximum of 50,000km at the Tacho.
Okay, I’d like to see a Mazda3 in your place from 2014. Reliable engines, in particular the gasoline (various engine capacity and no turbo), are also equipped for money.
Join the link to a page where you can watch super pictures of this and many other cars: https://www.netcarshow.com/mazda/2014-3/
The Mazda is great. The Ford Focus would certainly still be in question. Or a Nissan Pulsar.
Thank you.
Very nice car! Thanks for the link. I also look at the car more closely. Finally, I have other cars on the screen. ^^
Hey, Ruffy,
first of all, it is important that you look at how much the maintenance costs. The next point would be where your claims lie. I’d give you a hint that you’d let you be advised by someone who has professional experience. We will be happy to advise you for free and help you. here you can contact us: https://mf-autoteile.com
Thank you for your answer 🙂
I’d have a consultant on my side. I will remember these tips, as I will definitely calculate the entire cost of a car in my budget. Furthermore, my advisor will help me with further questions.
1: A car should be mostly priced at the beginning, especially in maintenance.
Says: Little insurance, little tax, best little repairs that are simple (and you can possibly make yourself).
2: Do you have to consider which requirements you have on the vehicle. A long-distance racer because you drive from Flensburg to Füssen every weekend?
Or rather every day the 5 kilometers to school/training/study?
A car I always recommend is a Toyota Starlet. With ABS, airbags and air conditioning, there is a good condition for just over 1000€. If it is favorable to insure, 6 liters, if at all, are almost uncaputable. Long distance goes but you should be young:D
Thank you for your quick answer 🙂
That sounds great. I would prefer a used car for short to medium distances (maximum 15 KM) and very rarely would I drive long distances if at all.
I will definitely take a closer look at your recommendation with the Toyota Starlet, as I have not heard and read anything from this car until then and this sounds quite interesting.
The Starlet is a very grateful car. It certainly no longer meets today’s standards, but landings in the type class (insurance contributions) very far below. There are only MX-5 or Porsche 911s. The MX-5 NA/NB would actually be good in your budget, which you can also look at.
What is important is: brand and image, just what anyone writes here doesn’t matter. Important for the age+price is only one:
The state. If you can’t evaluate the condition well enough, take someone with you who can. When considering use, it is cheated and lied, I had to make this experience myself often, honest sellers were the rare. The best thing I’ve had so far:
A built-in airbag control unit, lamp bridged. If I hadn’t come to it because it was really good. Luckily, he’s got something else, so I had a mistake and looked after. I noticed that.
I didn’t know this site. So far, you have helped me really, of course also other users.
http://www.autoampel.de/
Here you can estimate what a car costs in liability insurance. 10 is cheap, 15 is fucking expensive. Go up to 34, but as a beginner you’ll get 4000€, only for liability. Type class 10 is about 400-700€, 15 at 1200€. Of course, this is only very rough, but maybe it helps to assess if you want to consider a car.
That’s really bad for what these criminals are capable of, oh man!
Yes, I would then take a “confidence person” with me, which is even more familiar with cars than my little thing. I will also take a closer look at the MX-5 NA/NB, thank you.
Depending on how much driving practice you have, you can adjust your buget. What I would exclude personally would be all that comes from the VW Group.
Thank you for a quick answer! 🙂
Why do you exclude this? And what car brands could you recommend? I’d be titled myself as an advanced driver. ^^
Before I drive a VW, I’d rather take another Ford. I personally am currently driving Toyota and very satisfied.
I have worked at the VW for years and know how some cars are coming from the factory and how all means are trying to wipe out warranty cases
That sounds great. If necessary, I will look at the models mentioned in more detail on your part and make me a more exact picture or read some reviews on the Internet, thank you.
The focus is great. Provides space and equipment for relatively little money. Evtl is still a Nissan Pulsar or just a Toyota Auris (which would not be my favorite now) of the Mazda 3 mentioned in another comment is always a good option. What you need to pay attention to rust at the bottom of the Mazda
It’s kind of a pity because I’ve become more or less big with VW.
Which model of Ford could you recommend? I’m glad you found the car brand for you and are very happy.
if you trust in your driving skills you have right 5k.
other 2-3 k
a 2k car you can drive well.
I always want to be a dealer. because most of the smart cars sell,
in private they always have any invisible mistakes
Thank you for your rapid answer 🙂
Good to know. I think that I also tend to be between 3-4K€ and will definitely go to a dealer. Do you have any other tips, e.g. how old the car should be maximum or how much driven kilometers it can be maximum on the speedometer? ^^
2005 cars are when you’re happy with 400k on m tacho fucking horny. but that’s very different. I would buy my car so minium 2005-2010
200 thousand kilometers are little I find. our polo has almost 200k and he still feels like 2010 😀
All right, thank you for that! As already mentioned above, I had heard something quite different and therefore I am still relieved to have started this issue here at GF. ^^
Yes, that is very bad for the car ^^.
I’d go back there. Used cars with over 100,000 kilometers are not a problem-My last had 250,000 on the speedometer when buying, which before had 210,000 on the speedometer. That’s not a problem, you know each other. But you should know what to buy. Because as soon as “used car” stands on it, the cat is often in the bag. It doesn’t matter if 10,000 or 400,000 kilometers. Both can be good cars but also the last garbage.
autos will break if you give full gas in the empty run and then whip 😀 but sometimes the squeaking tires are quite amusing
Oh, okay. I always drive carefully and carefully. I myself would be titled myself as a “advanced” driver. ^^
depends on how to deal with the car. the cars of profiteers usually do not break or are in a top condition because they always drive slowly.
Madness!
Okay super, then you’ve got me the better instructor.
If, for example, I can drive with an 8-year-old used car, with 200,000 kilometers still 2-3 years, everything is tunti and I am satisfied. ^^
nen 2013er car is almost a new car 😀
my dad has nen mercedes ml of 2010 and he has already tempomat climate automatic heckenüpr and all so nen schnickschnack 😀
where I am thinking for high tech car
Wow, not bad :-D. I would have thought that this is much too much for used cars, apparently I read something wrong. My dad meant, for example, a maximum of 7 years old and a maximum of 150,000 KM. It’s really nice that your polo is still flotted. ^^