Moin ich bin am überlegen mir im laufe des nächsten Jahres eine neue Kamera zu kaufen und frage mich was mehr sinn macht. Zur Auswahl stehen Sony A6700, A7III und A7IV, wenn nicht sogar die A7V wenn sie bis dahin draußen ist. Fokus wird auf Car Photography liegen und ab und an mal ein bisschen Street und Sport. Videos sind weniger wichtig. Dachte mir ich frage hier mal nach, gibt bestimmt den ein oder anderen Experten dafür.
(2 votes)
Loading...Die rechts daneben sind Klettverschlüsse… Ich habe absolut keine Ahnung was ich damit anfangen soll 😬😂
Moin Habe das iPhone an den PC angeschlossen und Berechtigung gegeben, die Bilder und Videos hin und herzuziehen. So habe ich auch ein Backup erstellt.Nun möchte ich die Ordner der letzten Jahre – sind ja alle nach Monat sortiert – löschen. Beim Löschen kommt dann jedoch “konnte nicht gelöscht werden: Das Gerät reagiert nicht mehr…
Ich möchte mir fürs Fahrrad eine Dashcam anschaffen. Die soll nach vorne schauen. Hat wer einen Tipp? Die muss natürlich Wetterfest sein und einen Akku haben. Ich finde leider nur welche fürs Auto und eine GoPro ist mir zu teuer.
Ich fand diese alte Kamera doch um sie aufzuladen brauch ich ein Kabel mit diesem Anschluss. Weiß jemand was das ist? Es sieht etwas aus wie Mini USB ist es aber glaube ich nicht
Grüß Gottle, es gibt ja inzwischen jede Menge manuelle Objektive für moderne spiegellose Systemkameras von merkwürdigen Hipster-Marken wie “Meike” oder “7artisans”. Ich gehe mal davon aus, dass es sich dabei um irgendwelche uralten aufgewärmten Konstruktionen aus den 70-er Jahren und dergleichen handelt. Gibt es so was auch mit “Springblende” beziehungsweise dem elektronischen Äquivalent, so dass…
Ich hoffe ihr könnt mir helfen. Bestimmt habt ihr diese lineart Bilder schon al gesehen, womit man seine Bilder auf einen Pulli oder so bekommt. (Wie Foto) Meine Frage ist, ich möchte nur eine digitale Form von einem Bild in lineart haben. Ich habe schon ein paar Apps ausprobiert, aber leider ist das nicht so…
If you have a choice here, I would definitely take a full-format camera.
Regarding the different versions of the Sony A7: of course, the newer versions are better but also more expensive.
You can start with the cheapest case and buy better lenses from the saved money.
If the housing is no longer enough, you can buy a new camera housing and keep the old one as a replacement device while retaining the lenses.
That’s exactly what I think. Yes I would find certain functions of the A7IV, the display for simpler format Low Profile Images
Everything is right — but in the long term, the biggest cost factor for photographing is the lens collection.
True, and the high-quality lenses of Sony are also not cheaper.
Yes I see when I look at the f1.4 lenses of Sigma
Hello
whether what is “paid” is a simple cost/benefit bill. Now you simply ask the regular customers who will pay 20% more for 30% more megapixels or if someone may need more than 30% megapixels. Don’t talk about 30% more resolution or you can nail on it later. Because 30% more megapixels rarely give 30% more optical diagonal resolution at Zooms you are in the range of 5-10% and of 10-15% at fixed focal lengths. In addition, the case of diffraction problems is dappled.
After that you have a costing basis.
All Sony DSLM with 24MP sensors have approximately the same resolution at ISO 100, so small picture DSLM with 24MP “senseless” is used for a7R II/III/IV/V or a7IV or a7cR. In addition, Fuji APS-C cameras and optics with 40MP small image resolution and even mFT can deliver 40MP small image resolutions. Fuji and mFT do this with Sony sensors. Sony could build an a6800 with 40MP sensor. Or an a6700 without low-pass filter. The Fuji X Pro 3 has scratched out of the 26MP sensor almost 2250LP/BH, as much as an a7R or Nikon D800 from 36MP. Good Fuji X does not use Bayer Matrix
For the Sujets Street – Automotive – Sport is enough APS-C with 24MP, you need the right optics on/before the camera. The Kit Zooms limit the image quality/resolution, but the problem is also with small image kit optics.
Small image counts for Low Light applications and/or People/Portrait with release. Bayer Matrix Small Image Sensors are also later diffraction with the same number of megapixels than with DX and mFT.
20MP CX is no longer ” sharper” behind aperture 4.8
20MP mFT is no longer ” sharper” behind aperture 6.3
20MP APS-C is no longer ” sharper” behind aperture 8.
20MP small image is no longer ” sharper” behind aperture 13
Based on a deep-edged motif in scale 1:100 and the respective normal focal length, all sensor eyelets have approximately the same depth field. Based on an equally large motif at a distance of about 1 meter, larger sensors have more depth of field before the diffraction. The potentail of large sensors is their higher release and the opposite is the maximum attainable depth of field. But there are image processors and stacking for stretching the diffraction sprinkler and increasing the depth of field. And you can also increase the release with image processing since 2016
You probably don’t want to hear the tip, but as a beginner you don’t need an ultrapremium camera or the latest from the new one. Just as you don’t have to drive around with a Mercedes-Maybach as a starter.
For standing motifs such as cars, an A6400 thick is enough until you have learned the basics and can use the camera properly. The A6700 is no difference from the image quality and offers only better tracking, higher series picture rates, better video features etc.
You seem to have picked up the word full format and that this is the nonplusultra. In fact, a VF differs only slightly from an APS-C. Especially on social media, where everything is down to 2 megapixels, you will least be able to tell you the difference. In addition, the photographer does the photo and not the camera. If you don’t get good photos with APS-C, you won’t get better with full format.
So save your money and start small and invest in objectives. With the saved money, you can still get a better camera later when you have the A6400 excited. Up until there you will get the A7IV thrown under 1000€.
Yes, the A6400 is really good. IBIS would be nice and the larger battery is also a feature I don’t want to miss. My current camera is kept alive with batteries/accus and does not have the possibility to change the lens. This is why the jump on what is more high-quality
IBIS doesn’t even need so much, depending on the focal length and objective. With a 50mm lens, closing times of 1/80 are sufficient to do nothing. At a 35mm lens, you will come to 1/50. In daylight you rarely have closing times under 1/250. There are also stabilized lenses. And on the subject of battery, well then you buy low-cost foreign manufacturers batteries (e.g. from Patona) that have been changed in 2 seconds.
Hello
between a6400 and a6700 you can still buy the a6600 new (e.g. by 1000€) and used a6500 in condition B come with warranty under the 500€ threshold.
With DSLM in sports reporting range you always need replacement batteries, the advantage of cameras with FW100 battery can be used for about 1.5 to 2 minutes “duration fire” on the piece, while the FW50 battery is 30 seconds to 1ne minute. Sports report DSLR pick up up 5 minutes of continuous fire from the batteries. For Sony a7 there are often power handles/battery handles
A typical ice hockey, handball or basketball game has about 100 goals/ basket attacks that have about 3 seconds of action. At 10B/second, the 3000 images are displayed. With an a6400 you need 8 batteries, an a6600 4 pieces and an a6700 6 pieces. One 1Dx or D6 is sufficient for this. There are also slow sports such as football, where there are 20 goal situations in league games, the a6600 battery is sufficient. Sony has for a 4 compartment professional quick charger which presses an empty battery to 90% in 20 minutes. If you have a socket available on site, you will have 4 batteries/hour.
If I read this way, I think you’re falling into the technical rush and “Must Have”…
New cameras do not have the decisive jump in image quality, but rather in the range of functions. Is the question whether all the functions that you may not be using on your topics should still be a “must have”drine, may even overwhelm you?
You need IBIS when it gets dark and the exposure times become longer. If you make street at night/dumbling it may be advantageous. But image sticks in the lens are often enough. With some tricks (single tripod, or possibly one-legged, breathing technique etc) there is also a lot of things possible without IBIS…
Lens with 1.4 aperture? How often will you use this lack of sharpness? I’m sure Car Photography doesn’t. Street vlt mal, but there you want to have more sharp, except it is a portrait/person the motive. This is also possible with f1.8 or f2.. A 1.4 would be a bit of advantage in absolute LowLight evt, possibly in star photography to shorten the exposure a little so that star strips do not arise ( instead of 30s vlt 15s in long-term…)
First learn all the basics, image composition and hold ect before you make quantum leaps in professional technology and burn your money… That’s why the pictures are not getting better, just because the technology is more expensive…
Thank you for the detailed answer. The f1.4 lenses were only examples. The lenses I look at usually have 2.0 or higher. IBIS because I don’t want to carry a tripod around, the OSS at Sony in the lenses or even in the ones of Sigma should be enough yes is right.