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Warum sind meine Ölfarben so transparent?
ByLenka389
Hab gerade begonnen mit Ölfarben in meinem Skizzenbuch, 3 mal mit Gesso grundiert, zu malen. Hab zuvor die Seiten mit Terpentin verdünnter Farbe getont und trocknen lassen. Für das Malen verwende ich kein Terpentin und nur SEHR wenig Leinöl, jedoch sind alle Farben, die ich auftrage sehr transparent und ich kann auch keine zweite Farbe…
Legale graffiti stelen?
Hi kann mir einer von euch sagen wo in berlin legale graffiti Orte sind
Fotoalbum zum selbst Gestalten?
Ich suche ein Fotoalbum zu Selbstgestalten das schlicht aussehen soll und ca. 20×30 sein soll und schwarze seiten haben soll und finde sowas nirgends (Außer in Querformat und das will ich auch nicht). Hat wer Tipps wo ich sowas finde?
Spulenkapsel dreht sich nicht bei Nähmaschine?
Also alles bewegt sich nicht mehr bei meiner Pfaff tipmatic 1027 weil ich vielleicht die Spulenkapsel nicht richtig rein gedrückt habe und so hat sich ein oberfaden unten in dem Ding wo die Spulenkapsel drin steckt verheddert. Egal ob ich oben oder unten Gas gebe es dreht sich nichts also klemmts. Was tun?
Ein Grund um mit zug irgendwo hinzufahren?
Hi ich und mein Freund haben eine legale graffiti Wand in einer Stadt gefunden und wollen da sprayen jedoch erlauben meine Eltern es nd wenn ich sprayeen gehe Weiss jmd was ich sagen könnte das ich da hinfahre?
Controller bemalen?
Hallo ich wollte mal nachfragen ob es möglich ist einen Controller nur mit Acrylstiften oder Lack Marker zu bemalen ohne irgendwie etwas entfernen zu müssen. Also habe nur vor an den weißen Stellen etwas zu malen. Meine Frage wäre jetzt ob das möglich ist und welche stifte ich bräuchte und was sonst noch dazu notwendig…
you have to open the whole thing again.
for it is all wrong.
head, neck, transition, increase, just everything.
then you start again from the front and in RUNDEN with a warp as round and a stubborn air mesh at the beginning of the next round.
at the beginning of the round for the first crocheted solid mesh in each odd row you enter the place where you made the air mesh and in each straight row a masche farther right. so you get a clean vertical transition on the back of the later finished object.
that you do, too, when you crochet the neck of the bird, then not everything is so twisted obliquely, but the firm maschen lie nicely clean among each other.
they are not allowed to move to the side, they must lie with each other as here:
the increases to the body are also round. here again works as before.
during the transition to the color changes is obviously worked in series.
here you have to move to the left at the rowing of each odd row by half a masche.
I suppose you’re going to take the transition to the back that’s so “cut off” with a warp. this warp-crossing is the last masche in which you puncture. possible increases in the rowing are also worked in the warp stitches.
with it you pull the transition straight at the color changes.
each straight row you crochet as specified in the instructions.
Thank you for your effort and detailed description. Certainly the photo is confusing. Head and neck are not sloping, that’s right. It’s all rounds. It’ll be the tail. What just doesn’t work is the yellow belly. It must be possible that he’ll be right now. If I shift the yellow, the orange will no longer be even on both sides. Too bad you can’t upload another photo.
I make the change of color by pulling the new color through the last two loops of one color.
that is normal and has nothing to do with it.
the masche must be placed as described.
and of course, the head and neck are sloping, because they do not lie exactly on top of each other, but instead move. you can see that everything is running obliquely.
the photo is not confusing at all, only reverses. I just imagined differently.
when the body is crocheted in round, you have to move as I have described it for the round, i.e. with warp stitch to finish the round, stubborn air mesh as replacement for the first masche and in each odd row in the warp stitches of the previous round and in each straight row in the next masche. only that way you have no misplaced, but just mashing one another.
the course must be vertical at the crossover. He’s slanted with you.
You can believe me.
or even better – try it with a sample.
I think there are other good tips that do not dare to write because you are so penetrant!
May I summarize everything again? I wrote out the steps now: 1st Rounding Cettmasche, 2nd round beginning LM, 3rd uneven round, where air mesh comes out, 3rd straight round 1 M to right, 4th uneven round in chain stitches, 5th warp stitch connects 1st + last stitch. Just one more question: How does half a stitch go to the left?
I don’t want you to do any airmask in between, but just do it at the beginning of the round as I described it.
I’m getting the impression, you don’t want to get it.
make your shit alone and put it together like the first time. not my problem.
if the maschen are lying straight with each other, your color change is also straight.
but you don’t care.
Bye.
I’m really sorry for all this, because you’re such a stubborn.
read it or not, do it or not… I don’t care.
not my project, not my problem.
I KNOW WHAT WHAT YOU WHAT?
I tried. With the LM, the hole is too big for me and if I put the orange stitches, then orange becomes bigger on one side. I think we’ll talk to each other. So far, I’ve got everything and I’ve already crocheted some other stuff. Have not yet read any instructions where all the stitches must be on top of each other. Everywhere is added and removed without all stitches in balance. Your pattern up there won’t keep me moving. Changing color in rounds is no problem, only within the round is difficult. And if it were simple, others would probably have reported themselves out of you. Thank you and Tschau!
the offset is not normal and disturbs very well. because the result is that your color change is wrong because the whole piece of work is wrong.
No. because you’re just crocheting. you always make half-mask at the beginning of the round. then it will be automatically straight.
and also at the head and at the neck, the offset is disturbing.
the maschenbild am hals is not straight but oblique.
You seem to have still not read exactly what you need to do so that it is right now.
I’m really sorry – and it’s stupid for me because of the futile effort I made with the answer.
one last time:
you have to move exactly as I have described at the round transition. last try – after that I give up.
to connect the last with the first stitch.
Stigeluftmasche. in each odd round, you enter the same place from which the stubborn air mesh comes. in each straight round, you will puncture normally into the next masche.
and now BITTE BITTE just do it with a rehearsal thread.
DANKE.
The increases at the head are as in any instructions, 1 fM 1 to, 2 fM 1 to etc. The offset doesn’t bother, is normal. The neck is the same number each round, so it cannot be slanted.
Can you explain it again only for the color change from orange to yellow? The first yellow is an air mesh and the last yellow is a warp stitch?
That’s normal
I’ve got it sometimes
LG Miami
How can I avoid it? If the belly of a bird looks really stupid with a sloping belly.
If you stuff it with cotton, it’ll be back
More than I can’t taste. Maybe you don’t explain right? I don’t find google in half-make. How about you try your guide yourself and take a picture? And you don’t have to be “pony” in person either.
happy.
it would have worked if you weren’t that stubborn.
Thank you for the flowers!
You don’t want to make it that way. at least fits the user name.
No, it won’t. Got one. He has a yellow knitted patch on his stomach. Not optimal.