Hello everyone.
At home, I tapped a 40A residual current device (RCD) from the supply line. The RCD has two C16 circuit breakers for two outlets. The L3 outlet is simply screwed shut without any load. The two N terminals of the RCD are connected to the N terminal.
As soon as I plug a microwave into one socket and an oven into the other socket, the RCD immediately trips.
What could be the reason for this?
(No Ratings Yet)
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The outgoing circuits are also gr + bl together at the top of the N-rail, so the nix.
Is the main line 5 adrig?
What cross section?
The Fi is not complified after the photo?
At the bottom right of the automatic fuse is with K — identifier ,( sluggish) which is original and has been used for machines with difficulty.
He has to look here nix because he has a completely different triggering behavior.
That’s N and PE, you know, when you’re stuck, the FI is out. Blue and green yellow never together.
Each FI includes a separate clamping block with the neutral conductors of the secured circuits.
What “both N” on what “N-terminal”? The fact that the neutral conductor cannot be clamped together with the neutral conductor behind the FI circuit breaker was hopefully observed…?
In the switch box is a PE and a N clamp where hold all N and PE go. Didn’t know where else the N was. LG
It can’t work. Especially since you didn’t understand how a FI circuit breaker works at all.
Sorry, but again proof that you shouldn’t sit around on the electrical installation without any expertise.
Let you help young. Read right then you know where they are
You don’t mind a stupid answer? Again, where are the two machines?
You take the N that goes into the control cabinet and wires it to the entrance.
If he isn’t present, it’s a lot of fun to retrofit.
As an electronics engineer for operating technology, you should be aware that if you change the system, you need to update the complete system (feed + all from RCD)*, you should make a change. (i.e. it must comply with the current laws and standards)
Clamping the N, which comes out on the other side of the RCD, on other clamping blocks, otherwise the total current transformer emits an incorrect value and triggers it. –>see function RCD
*According without guarantee, I would check again at times. But even at the moment, unfortunately, have no current access to the complete standard system.
Yeah, there’s an N-rail up there? And from the entrance you go to the FI, and with the exit N to an additional N-terminal. It’s easy.
But I am talking about where I am going to the entrance of the FI. Because nowhere in the whole cycle is another N. It’s just all three-pole.
Of course you could help. It has been mentioned several times that the neutral conductor must be placed behind the FI protective switch on a separate neutral conductor terminal. Because of that:
https://www.lampen-ersatzteile.de/Neutralleiter-Klemme-Verteiler Klemme-blau-12-pin-fuer-Hutrail
And a little bit of self-thinking and you’re still allowed to know.
Yeah, I do, but it’s always easy at school. In practice, as you can see, not so easy.
well, I couldn’t really help anyone, but thank you.
So electronics engineer for operating technology…? However, in all cases one should know the mode of operation of a FI circuit breaker and the relationships of the circuit.
Who can read is clearly in advantage.
I am a skilled business engineer and fresh from teaching. Since my company has taught me nothing, I try to convert the little knowledge I have into learn by doing. I have no idea where to take the entrance N.
I don’t see any machines left of the FI!
And if there’s no N going through the FI, it doesn’t work either. Again typical layman base.
As I said: On the output side, the neutral conductor must have its own neutral conductor terminal. But let someone install it from the subject.
Yes on the photo it is not complete. Input N and output N are bridged at the top of the terminal and the two vending machines on the left are also bridged with l1 and l2.
So I only see that three conductors are connected on the input side. I don’t see a neutral conductor and there’s nothing on the output side.
Now. By the way, the wiring of 1968 is. only the Fi below is fresh:D
No, otherwise you’d see the picture.
Did it work?
Edit question > Add question > Add picture.
How far?
Should be possible if you process or supplement the question.
can I send a picture of the box here? Then you see what it looks like.