ByzNils97
I recently bought a Golf 6 with a 1.4 TSI. The timing chain and tensioner have already been replaced. I just wanted to ask if it's OK to sound like that when starting cold, or if I should be concerned.
(1 votes)
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Unfortunately, you gave this important information only in a comment:
Then it may be broken again. Especially when the sprockets were not exchanged.
At the cold start in the video, you can hear the control chain flap. This can now have several causes. If the car was standing in the cold for a long time, it can be that it flaps a little longer because the car must first build up oil pressure and the chain tensioner must clamp the chain.( The oil is naturally more viscous at these temperatures, i.e. thicker )
If the ‘control chain damper’ is gone after a maximum of 3 seconds at such cold temperatures, I would first take less thought. Many control chain motors do this because the oil pressure has to be built up and, as said, the chain tensioner has to tension.
Then drive the car warm and then start it straight. If he doesn’t, it’s harmless. Otherwise, the motor can be cut off for safety, i.e. the control times check whether a slight difference between the cam and crankshaft is already. (This would indicate a suspended control chain)
What kind of oil do you want?
In the video you can also hear how the car first builds up the oil pressure and then the flap will disappear. After a long service life, the entire engine oil collects in the oil pan and the cylinder head, hydraulic rams, chain tensioners must accordingly be filled again with oil at the start of the engine.
If this weren’t the VW 1.4 motor- I would give you right at every point
the 1.4 motor of VW is very well known for its control chain problem- normally they are exchanged at 50-80.000. But you have to urgently replace everything – control chain tensioning roller. From VW belong to the engine by the way 0-w30 Longlife. But you should like to change this to 10-w40 in the new control chain – then the new control chain will continue to last forever ( VW still makes 0-w30 pure – if you don’t get money again later, because of new control chain)
Yes, it does not only understand the control chain incl. To make a stretcher. Of course also the sliding rails, camshaft and crankshaft wheels. However, I recommend an oil change interval of 15,000km and a 5W40 for the engines. The 10W40 is too thick in the cold start, and the rattle would come back as it is too thick.
Thank you for the comment! Yes, the car is currently out there all the garages are occupied. At the time of the video there were about -2.5* outside. I’ll take the car a little warm tonight, and I’ll take another video. Maybe that’ll explain my problem. If I don’t, I’ll get some professional help in a workshop.
Best regards
please…
Ok I accept, thank you for the tip 🙂
in this engine it is really better to drive thicker oil – the control chain goes only kaput- because the thin oil brings the dirt particles through the too small oil pan every time on the control chain – these small dirt particles settle between the rolls and then the whole salad comes. That’s why with this engine (only the 1.4) better go to 10-w40. Better thicker oil and dirt stays away (something 1x in the year oel change or at 20,000- well warm driving in the lower deh number range) – then everything is good.
and no worries about the 10-w40- there is nothing in the cold condition (for 70.000 km a friend has whispered me out of engine development) and with me nothing does not fade – even at cold start, if outside – 10 degrees – absolutely no more (not in the first 3 seconds)
This sounds 100% like a starting engine damage, in particular after defective connecting rod bearings, starting piston eater and/or piston web breakage, unfortunately quite often with this engine, see video at 10:58:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJ6uxhuZ1ak&t=10s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsJWBNbZ7Q
That the connecting rod bearings or Cylinders run quieter again when the engine is warm there is no contradiction for this because then more engine oil has reached the lubrication points.
Another possibility is that only the control chain was actually exchanged during the control chain exchange (a frequently carried out cheap repair) and not additionally the plastic guide rails, clamping rollers and pinions, which is much more expensive.
The hydraulic eyelet can no longer be dense and the oil flows out of the chambers when it is turned out, and therefore the valve comes because the hydraulic eyelet with the oil can no longer compensate for the difference when the engine heats up for the valves
I would also say. I’d be the first to replace the exhaust for the Ori.
I would also be interested when the control chain has been made and how many kilometers the caravan has now. And what oil is used – still the longlife?
I’d be the first to replace the exhaust for the Ori.
I would also be interested when the control chain has been made and how many kilometers the caravan has now. And what oil is used – still the longlife?
Why trade the exhaust for the Ori again? Actually, it’s just a BullX tail silencer. And the control chain was made before ca. 50,000 KM. He actually does that sometimes. Only if it really is -3 degrees or something. Otherwise it sounds and runs “normal”.
What kind of oil do you use?
100,000 km- the control chain has kept long.
So from your noise, I would also tap the control chain. But this is already very glamorous with you- you would have said nciht “only if it is very cold and at cold start” I would have also tipped to the hydro tappet. Just your cold start, bring me to the control chain. (you have a niche that has been made the control chain + clamping rollers+ rollers )
let this go again at the workshop – this is very important – if the skipped- can blow the motor into the tonn( ok- it will be very expensive)
From home are in the 1.4 by the way 0-w30 longlife in- (which is with one of the causes, why the control chain slowly gives up the mind) – VW will continue to use. If you make the next oel change – run to a FReien factory statue and leave 10-w40 Oelinterwall- made at 20-25,000 km .
And if once the power leaves off the engine and can hardly give any gas – let a turbo-reperature set (respect line usually has to be done) be installed.
Control chain was made at about 100,000. Now the point is exactly 144,400 km. I’ve had the golf for almost two weeks. Oil should be normal 5W30. But I’m not 100% sure. Last oil change was at 120,000 km
That sounds very strongly like a lengthened control chain
That sounds for me very much like the
If the tax chain was made before 50kkm, I very much doubt this again has a damage. I think you should let the hydros change