Hey, I really want a Golf 2, but it's pretty old…so most of the offers probably have defects. Now my main question: Every model has these typical defects, like "rust on the fender" or something similar. What are the problems with the Golf 2? So, what should I look out for when buying?
(2 votes)
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Be careful first: only cars that have Euro2 Kat or can be upgraded to Euro2. If upgrade is planned, inform us if the parts are still available. “E2” in the papers = Euro 1! Many sellers like “irren” there. At Euro1 you pay a lot of taxes and that doesn’t have to be if you have the choice. The saved money is more likely to be invested in maintenance.
Condition is always dependent on the care, treatment and accommodation of the single copy. Of course you have to look for rust, in some you don’t need to look and find at the first glance, in others there is nothing to find.
is typical:
Plastic films shrink behind the doorsteps, water penetrates in rain. Cars constantly hit, door-pappen with water edges.
The interior is tied up – some parts in some colours are now difficult to find.
Check technical bases for registration in the papers. (Sport steering wheel, sports air filter, rims, exhaust system, etc.)
Something in the field of suspension and drive is always knocked out/scattered. For some, only one-two components for others. Axle bushes almost always at the back, mainly due to rubber ageing.
Brake lines are porous, if not already exchanged. Brake cylinders in drum brakes are often leaky and lose brake fluid.
Coupling is short before the end.
Oil loss on engine and gearbox is actually also standard. As long as there are tub seals or hoses on the connectors, it is quickly made, simmerings and cylinder head seal are quite expensive when you make it in the workshop.
rust:
Sliding roof, if available, in open condition.
Rear flap at the lower edge, at the window seal, around the windshield wiper connection, to the damper.
Thresholds, especially on car lifts and end points.
Area of the tank filler neck
Door trays, laces and trims
Control rubbers everywhere in the area of the panes, even at the bottom of the front pane
Shock absorber domes, all 4.
Wheels, front wings in the lower yard to the sills
Spray wall particularly in the transition region to the bottom plates and in the region of the hood hinges.
Underbody, especially on the welds of struts and in the area of rubber stoppers.
Maintenance joints in the rear end plate and area of the towing eye.
But these are all the points you should look at every car. You won’t find anyone who mutters in all these places. It is much easier to find a stainless steel.
The only typical of the IIer Golf: the transverse weld seam of the rear floor panels (room in front of the rear bench), some specimens rusted there.
You shouldn’t take anyone who has maintenance in all areas. There’s a little something to do on every used car, even on an annual car, you don’t have to pretend. The problem is the people who don’t do it and just drive. After 20 years, they’ll sell you their car and say two weeks later on the Internet: “What do you want with such a lost thing?! It’s all broken!” It wouldn’t be if they took care of it a little bit. ;
Even if the question is old, I’ll have something out.
For me, the Golf II is just one of the best built cars of VW., small but for that, smart, simple and damn bite if you want. Drive one of 1992 with servo and 1.8RP motor (90PS) things run and run and run. If something does not run, this is quickly repaired (as well as no electrics or Schnick Schnack). The car is also best suited as a beginner car if you do not expect much (as usually no ABS, airbag, servo etc.) With 90hp alone, they are very economical and are also very good. The good old carburetor engines are holding out a lot. There are also many tuning options that are also cheap spot. Unfortunately, it will be harder from day to day to day to get to a good answer because unfortunately also comes with the age of cars rust etc. Believe me, the Golf II remains reliable no matter whether winter or summer, things really run without end.
You should pay attention to a green fine-dust plaque (if the same is retrofitted), from sheet metal they are rarely completely at the end but surprisingly robust. Dui should also make a review of value from an authorized reviewer (approximately 100 to 200 Euros) that covers all problems and guarantees you a certain level of security.
In addition to the normal wear phenomena, typical problems are the inner transverse link bearings and motor bearings. The compass image should be correct and the body should be checked by means of a manget whether it was not wildly sprinkled. From the grounded and spoiled models, you should also leave the fingers everything you need to be serial condition, possibly from the alus (more beautiful rims).
Then this can even represent a value system, rubbers on discs and side windows should also be in order and continue to be maintained. Joachim
I would buy one that still has long or even new TÜV, otherwise also stands well & best few previous owners, especially some invoices about repairs from the last few years & has little rust… there are still, and mediocre Golf II is partly available for 700 euros or so, it does not have to be a perfect condition. The models were built until 1991 or 1992, and all possible deficiencies can occur accordingly. But are usually not expensive to eliminate, the Golf II is quite simple. A friend of mine has one more & does everything on his own… and is not a car, but in the office:)
Thanks for the most helpful, normal answer 🙂
Okay thank you 😉 Is only my opinion on the subject!
After 25 years, everything can be done. Rust can be anywhere. Engine can be scraped, gear can be scrap. Watch for TÜV (if there is at all) Watch for the last inspection (if not be too long). Do with someone the idea has a PF to the next VW dealer and let him look at it.
To cheer you up… I still own a backpack golf (Jetta), that is identical to the golf 2 — clear, the things have on average 25 years on the hump, which does not survive a car on duration. However, the still relatively stable are built, and the advantage, spare parts are mocky, get practically everywhere and most of them you can judge yourself, or let a specialist mechanic make quite favorable, since unlike the new ones, where he needs special tools and has to mount a fender to replace the lamps, comes quite well with little tool. Nevertheless, the question is whether it makes sense to get a 2nd by 1000 euros, and to put in again 1200, or whether to get a comparison sum of something newer. It is true that there are very good preserved and well-maintained two people who only get prices you pay for the new Dacia factory:D
Surely the spars are rusted if not rusted. The lamps will come to you. He needs a general overhaul. Why are you doing this to you?
I wish you a nice Advent season.
Surely you can only say that you have no idea of the Golf II at all and fantasize wildly instead of helping the questioner.
You could say he shouldn’t be on the junk neck. Please look at more modern models,before you just make Miese.
At a 2nd golf, you should make sure he keeps together.
What do you expect from such an old box?