Simson Bremse einstellen?

Hallo,

Ich habe vor 2 Tagen die Bremsbeläge meiner S51 gewechselt (vorne, hinten habe ich noch nicht), da sie meines Erachtens nichtmehr gut gebremst hat.

Doch das Problem ist, dass sie mit den neuen Belägen noch schlechter bremst als vorher.

Ich habe versucht sie einzustellen doch das Problem ist, wenn sie einigermaßen gut bremst (immernoch schlechter als vorher) schleift die Bremse ziemlich und wenn sie nicht schleift, zieht sie kaum an und ich kann den Bremshebel bis an den Griff ziehen.

Kann mir da jemand helfen und weiß evtl. was man da machen kann?

Danke für eure Antworten!

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Amtsschreck
2 years ago

Do you know these intermediate or compensatory plates? There are 3 different strengths.

https://www.akf-shop.de/Simson Spare Parts/Raeder-Nabenteile/Bremsteile/Set-3×2-Bremsbacken interlayer-1-0-1-5-2-0-mm-Simson-S51-S50-SR50-KR51-Schwalbe-SR4/

This allows the brake to be adjusted even more precisely. These parts (see picture: 12) are mounted on the brake shoes (11). At the point where they are pressed apart from the brake cam (13). They can be used individually or as a pair (also in different strengths). How to just need it.

https://www.akf-shop.de/explosion drawings?producer=1767&type=2&drawing=C1036

The platelets can be bent with a pliers on the sides so that they hold. You can also fix it with some engine fat until you have reassembled the brake. The platelets can’t leave their position.

For the unlikely event that you still have a problem with which platelets to adjust the brake correctly, you could grind off some brake pad.

I have read a comment in a forum:

I think the problem is finding why the Simson front wheel brakes so modestly.

The solution to the problem for all those who do not want to brake the front wheel brake on bending and breaking even after all possible and impossible measures, I found in an old 1959 magazine in which Carl Hertweck published an article. This is the following – summarized:

Each drum brake with only one cam has an opening and a running brake jaw (image), the former reacting about three quarters of the manual force introduced into braking force and the latter thus only a quarter. However, it is necessary to know that the jaw is first placed on the brake drum, which is moved by the underside of the cam. Once this jaw has applied, the cam can no longer rotate and the other jaw is no longer pressed against the drum as well as at all. And this is precisely where the problem lies: if one looks at the front wheel brake from the kick starter side, the brake cam rotates counterclockwise and thus the running-off jaw is moved from the cam lower side, i.e. the running jaw, which in the best case converts a quarter of the hand force into braking force, does not lie against the brake drum and the running jaws (as good as) do not, therefore the lack of braking action. (In the case of the rear wheel brake, the brake projects exactly from the other side into the drum, so that the upcoming jaw is moved from the lower side of the cam, which is why the rear wheel brake usually also brakes enormously.) There are various ways to fix the damage: One could wait, for example, until the outgoing jaw has worn so far that the upcoming jaw comes to bear. It takes forever. Therefore, there is also a more elegant solution: you simply fly from the cam side, which moves the running jaw (which is the cam underside in the Simson front wheel brake), about 1 to 2 millimeters and the problem is solved, i.e. the braking effect is improved. The same effect would also have to be achieved if, in the case of worn jaws, only the opening is provided with an intermediate layer, so that the latter reaches the brake drum first. More than 2 to the highest 3 millimetres should not be wiped.