Is it normal to hear a clicking noise when shifting up at around 9,000 rpm on a motorcycle with an oil-bath clutch? (Nothing's broken, and it's only 3,500 km on the clock.)
(1 votes)
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Irritated so late to turn. In the transmission, something is moved and the flow of force in the drive train is also briefly interrupted. These are all mechanically stressed parts. There’s a sound coming.
Is there a 125 where you’re turning late? Should I just pull the clutch and wait a time?
A 125 isn’t going to be quicker if you’re switching. Look into your power/torque diagram and determine the best switching range. Switching is correct if you can hardly feel anything at the transition from one to the other gear, like joking, scubating or similar. It’s best to tell you a socius.
Thanks for your star.
It only flashes and then comes a continuous light. A little later is not tragic
First of all, I’ve got the 4,000 full so you’re not gonna do until the ad comes or make it right when I’m full of the kilometers. If the light would light up I have to do this directly or is it okay if I drive 50-100 km further to buy the material or to drive the workshop? And keep in general around where to go because the oil will not get bad when the light shines
There is also a glowing display. It’s the first after the new purchase.
Yes, because I have to make him there
Why 300 km? Is that somewhere?
Yes there is enough oil available also the right oil is also because which must not be used in any case the clutch works well then just be a loud gear I have to make an oil change in 300 km I will see what comes out of there
The oil is also part of the gear. If no oil is filled up or wrong, it can increase low tones. By the way, not every coupling of any oil. Switching without noise is more possible in larger gears. There’s more room for synchronizers. You try to switch at different speeds and find the best time to switch for you. Also check the clutch whether it separates.
Wow the Weis also when to change it but we were on the subject of gear
That’s how it’s written.
Oil change
After the first interval and
if the oil change interval
display flashes or illuminated
Control oil level
All 3000 km (1800 mi)
I have the book lying in front of me there is not that and I know it myself and can also be reset
Change when the lamp lights. After the change, the whole thing has to be reset. Read it right. I wrote you where it is.
no control it has to be changed every 3000 kilometers plus new oil filters.
Page 6-6 point 25 is: Oil change when the interval indicator flashes or lights permanently. Otherwise all 3000 km of oil level control. Check where to fill. There’s a nice video on Google.
It’s not in the instructions. On the Internet when nix is in the guide, this is changed after 100-200 thousand
You have a manual in which everything stands. Otherwise, download it.
I don’t know how I’ll check this out. So there is no interval when it is changed so only in an eternity
It’s like four-strokes. Checking is always good.
I believe my gear is lubricated with the engine oil and there is enough of it. Am I wrong or how do I check?
Try to switch with a little more time. The flow of force must be separated and brought together again. There are metallic things in the game and they make Rabatz. Check the oil level in the gear.
Yes, but why he’s standing there a loud Klack sound I mean I always have it. But it is extremely loud when switching to the first but this is normal. And when switching at really high turns it is also loud
It’s not harmful. There is a saying: switching is not a secret that everyone can hear.
Okay, but anyway, if you turn on later, something’s going to break because you got a crack because the clutch actually separates it?
The torque curve does not extend linearly. She rises and then falls again. The 11 at 8000 can be after the climax. I found it:
Performance
11,0 kW (15hp) at 10,000/min
Torque
11.5 Nm at 8,000/min
So, these are your performance data. 11.5 at 8000 is the ideal and highest torque. Before and there you should switch.
I have a Yamaha mt 125 I could even show you a video where you see that I have a torque of 12.5 and at 8 thousand I believe I 11
The diagram not, just your way of driving in the high turns. In the 3rd or 4th, you almost can’t reach them. An error that acceleration is still achieved at high revolutions. This is achieved at the point of the highest torque. This is about 2/3 rated speed. By the way, information about your moped is missing. You can’t answer that.
It just makes nix this noise and I have the best acceleration when I go up to 9000 and then turn up. Besides, I don’t have a chart like that. Besides, what’s going on?
When switching, the motor should always have almost the speed which corresponds to the respective gear at the instantaneous speed. Then this goes without loading the synchronization and actually goes butter soft. Nevertheless, the engagement of the gear can be audible.
Sequential circuit. Can also do without coupling.
I don’t want to switch without coupling because my guide never says because the parts are not designed for
It always goes. Don’t have to shut down.
Nonetheless, nix wants to risk, but my question was this crispy normal?