Selber Mosaik Bilder häkeln?
Heyo,
ich habe angefangen mit dem Mosaikhäkeln und habe sehr viel spaß daran. Ich habe so so ne kleine Wand und wollte einen Wandteppich machen.
Ich möchte gerne selber ein Muster machen. Ich weiß das man eigentlich jedes Pixel Art verwenden kann, aber bei kleinen Proben (20 Maschenx 15 Reihen) ist mir aufgefallen das immer etwas vom Pixel Art verloren geht. Ich verändere deshalb das Pixel Art etwas, damit es auch gut aussieht.
Wie siehts bei größeren Pixel Arts aus. Geht da viel vom Bild verloren? Wie verhält sich das?
Das ist 1zu1 die Fledermaus wie sie auf dem Pixel Art ist.
(2 votes)
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Test the following:
Crochet first a box pattern with 2*2 stitches per box and at least two color changes per row. Change in the first change with the first thread pick-up in the stitch and in the second change already during the stitching of the previous stitch. You’ll find a difference.
It also makes a difference whether you always start at the same edge with the row, or work in back and forth rows. In addition, the stitch pattern changes when you stitch under the first thread, the second or both.
Now it is important to see how many colors you want to bring. With a few colors you can hide the unused threads under the crocheted row. If too many colors have to go, then you should carry them on the back and overwrite some stitches before their use. In the case of spot colors, 7-10 stitches can also be folded over the thread beginning of the new color on the row before use, then tausxchen and the color zone crochet, in order to subsequently (replaced) rework the remainder again with 7-10 stitches before being cut.
Depending on the fineness of the thread and needle, an image can act very differently. The finer the pixels, the more the color transitions become. But even coarser pixels can have their charm when the image is structured in a simpler manner.
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13.03.2023 Addendum to images:
Somehow, the row heights and the pixel heights do not fit properly to each other. I notice that you work with half sticks and thus always process two box heights of the original in a row of crochets. This leads to losses in the resolution, especially when the upper part has a different color than the lower part. Try fixed stitches instead of half sticks and take a crochet row for each box row. Always change the color when the previous stitch is wiped. That should be better suited to each other. Fixed stitches are almost square (mesh number and number of rows per 10cm are almost identical).
The answer was added to the commentary of the following pictures.
These are small sticks I do and that’s what makes the mosaic crochet. You stay in a row with a color and always start right. That you have to reconnect the thread into each row.
I find this technique very interesting, especially as I like to haggle with pictures of sand watches. (Crows unconsciously the thread at some point too tight and there is a sand clock form). In order to avoid this in large images, I wanted to use this technique.
Therefore my question how much visually would be lost in large images
I didn’t put your tips on it, and I worked two small samples. The Pixel Arts looks good. The little hourglass is still there, although I was very careful not to tighten the threads.
Let’s see what I use from both.
Thanks for the detailed answer.
OK, then you would have to choose the individual boxes in the template so shaped that you can implement them with little loss. It can then be that the box in the original is twice as high as wide. For this, you see the implementation of the motif in the later work better. At least I would try that. Some patterns can not be implemented so well, but then you can see it at least before the first stitch.
I don’t understand everything yet, but instead of the FS I wanted to thank you for your detailed answer and the great guide 💛 vlt I can use it sometime…