Roller 50ccm geht während der fahrt immer aus?
Hallo Leute.
Mein Roller Tauris Samba 50 ging immer wieder während der fahrt aus(und zog auch nicht mehr richtig) aber nach ca 5 minuten warten und starten lief er wieder.Nach reinigen des Vergaser (obwohl der vergaser sauber war und in der kammer Spritt vorhanden war),war dann alles wieder gut.Nach einigen Tagen fing das gleiche Problem wieder an.Bin ca 4km gefahren,dann ging immer wieder der Anzug weg und kurz vor dem Stillstand ging der Roller aus.Nach ca 5min warten und starten lief der Roller wieder,nur in unregelmäßigen abständen fing das Problem wieder an.Nach ca 3-4 mal während der fahrt ausgehen und starten,war dann die Batterie alle.Der Roller machte ein komisches geräusch beim immer wieder ausgehen(klattern oder Rattern kann man schwer erklären).Kann mir nicht vorstellen das es mit dem Vergaser zu tun haben könnte auch der Luftfilter sieht sauber aus und Spritt bekommt der Roller auch,schließe daher die 3 sachen aus.Vielleicht kann mir jemand helfen,würde mich darüber sehr freuen..
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Carburetor problems can be ruled out quite simply by holding a petrol-impregnated flap on the intake pipe. If he gets away with it, lying on the carburetor, he doesn’t run, the problem is where different.
Because you’re writing a little bit of crawling noise, I’d look at the cylinders and the pistons. Heat clamps would explain why this thing is going out and only after some waiting time starts again.
Your oil pump works, it’s not air in the line?
oh yes,who will look at the cylinder and piston once is a good idea. Many thanks for your tip/rat..
I don’t know where is the oil pump and how do you test it with the air?
Sorry I’m beginning to have not so much idea of Roller..
will make me smart about google and YouTube.
Maybe a bit late but with me it was the oil pump that lies with the fan wheel once the screw opened air left out and Zack ran again;)
Find a skilled person who helps you
I wanted to avoid that because it costs money.
Is the Sprit filter clean/exchanged?
However, I can do it only does not explain the clatter/ratter shortly before the standstill (which takes about 2-4 seconds).
If there were two suspicions by remote diagnosis, which is always difficult:
yes that with the cylinders and pistons had just written me one,because you are the 2 that it may be.Thanks for your help+ response..
This is, if I don’t deceive everything, a 2-stroke. When the one has clamped because of overheating, grooves and burrs are formed in the cylinder and on the piston, which repeatedly lead to new clamps as soon as the motor becomes warm.
This can be determined by removing the cylinder head and looking at the running surface from the cylinder.
A “help repair” can then look like the piston is being built up and any burrs are slipped off with grinding paper. On the cylinder wall, however, it should not be looped around because it otherwise becomes leaking through the grooves of the grinding paper.
However, if you have already screwed everything down, you can insert a new cylinder set including a new piston. They cost between 40,- and 60,- Euronen.
If he’s jammed, you can also find out if you’re using the kickstarter. If this is somewhat heavier than in the cold state, the diagnosis is quite clear piston clamp.