Riese & Müller Birdy long-term experience?
Good evening dear community,
I'm thinking about buying a used folding bike called Birdy from Riese & Müller.
However, unlike the newer versions, it does not have hydraulic disc brakes, but (hydraulic) rim brakes.
I once read on YouTube that someone used to fold his Birdy daily on the train and after months of folding, his rim brake broke
Does anyone have similar experiences with a Birdy with rim brakes or general long-term experience with a Birdy and can report what it's like?
best regards
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You should not.
What I read from R&M is also not relevant. But even at R&M no brake breaks off from folding itself.
From improper treatment, on the other hand.
I think they'd be too hard for the price – no matter what brands.
Thank you for your answer Hayns,
I just found the report on YouTube again. I seem to have mixed up something in my memory.
Broken is the sheathing of the brake hoses, not the brake itself, and the brakes have barely braked and were barely tight to get.
What do you mean too hard for the price? From weight or just too expensive?
The weight plays an important role in me – not that I am weak, but comfort comes with me right after quality.
For what purposes/circumstances did you consider a folding wheel?
@Hayns, I think I'm a little too short. I mean, you're supposed to get the switchgear to the pinion as far as possible, but keep it as low as necessary, so turn out the B screw, so that the switchgear comes close to the pinion.
Thanks for the feedback 👍, even if I don't understand the following:
You / I turn them only until the height / distance fits.
Thank you both. Actually, I thought the necklace at the neighboring pinion rubs on normal pedaling without a change of gear, but it's all right now. In fact, the chain has ratcheted at two sprockets during gearshifting and somewhat delayed the gear. With the B screw, this would be eliminated. I want you to turn the B-screw out as far as possible. Take the screw out after a few days and the circuit still works great. The control plate is at maximum height. Probably it could even be set higher without getting problems.
best regards
According to my experience, it doesn't matter what width the chain now has. The 7.1 works on 6 times, the 7.3 on 8 times. The respective state of the chain is of greater interest. In both cases, however, I tend to the narrower version.
Yeah, I wanted to say that. There is no reason to switch to Shimano.
At Knacksus' I would also first check the fine adjustment. The fine-adjusting nut may turn in to take some tension on the train. And yes, the B-screw comes on.
Then in this case the 7.3 mm (from Shimano?) would be a disadvantage – so no reason to switch to Shimano.
You're ahead of me professionally, yet favor to check the loop.
Knackxus ́ description fits to a problem as I had, the B screw was the solution.
But to find these "stretches" that cause switching/or grinding noise is detective work.
KMC is the market leader. The Shimano chains are also made there (if it is true what I found on the internet). There are no differences in measurements. However, KMC offers different pin lengths for 5- to 8-fold chains, 7.1 and 7.3 millimeters. Shimano chains also come with a rivet pin, the KMCs with a chain lock that I personally prefer.
Adjustment screw for wrapping > Image <
Manual set circuit.
Your described switching/grinding problem sounds more after setting . There is often only one, two in the setting screws 10th mm on.
There is a screw that increases the distance of the switching cage/shifting rim from the cassette.
@Hayns, got me a used Tern BYB P8 now. Although not a steel frame, it is more than enough.
If there were even more expensive folding bikes, then it would be too much of a concern before a theft, while it is at work on the premises.
All I care about is the chain. She always pulls the next larger sprocket just before it leaves the sprocket. Maybe it helps to change the built-in KMC chain against a Shimano 8-speed chain if this is slimmer
Thanks for the star. ⭐
This is the crux that I also have when buying a bike (racing bike / gravel bike)… The "crux", the marketing.
Without hydraulic disc brakes, you can hardly sell anything. Customers “know” it now hydraulic disc brakes are the best.
Not that they are bad per se, but in many cases they are not necessary. Especially since the additional weight is included with additional price.
Folding wheels will soon also have electronic radio circuits as a “must have”.
Nothin', neither radio switching nor disc brakes are a must, but high-end sells well.
Nothing can be said against a steel frame. Carbon and aluminum are selling better today.
My three racing bikes from 1993 to 2020 were made of steel. There's nothing better for me. Now I drive carbon – more or less forced (marketing).
Nabing and carbon belt is a good option for your purposes, a pity that the S8i is so heavy.
I'm sorry I wasn't a quick help. But the missed bargain would have had to go to the workshop.
For example, I am willing to pay twice if the folding wheel also lasts at least twice as long and offers further advantages, such as weight, speed, driving characteristics, maintenance comfort or equipment.
I'm looking at Tern Verge S8i. Fully equipped and with a combination of high quality hub gear and the carbon belt it is very low maintenance. The hydraulic disc brakes are also less maintenance and more reliable in wet weather than mechanical brakes, but if maintenance is required, it is more complicated. However, it is also relatively heavy with 14.3kg due to all the equipment and wheel size. There are 13.3kg-13.4 kg without luggage carriers. It comes to about 2.6kg if you also remove the hub dynamo and replace the lights with battery-powered light.
I am only unsafe with the frame material, whether I take one of aluminum (a tern) or (powder-coated) chromoly steel, for example, Viello or the new 20-inch bromopton.
If steel does not rust, it is more durable. But needs appropriate care and attention.
Aluminum is easier to maintain, but can break sometime at repeated high loads. I think that well-processed aluminum should not experience high loads on my weight and luggage, as I and heavy luggage would not even reach 80 kg and, for example, the S8i may be loaded with a maximum of 105kg (driver+ luggage).
But I thought how you could pay less. The used Birdy would have only been 500€ and weighs between 11-13kg, but another one has already caught it.
Do you happen to have experience with the different frame materials?
The thing with the brakes that are no longer tight is hydraulic.
That would be the first point if I had need – Hydraulic brakes (no matter if rims or discs) are missing here. A good rim brake / V-brake with brake train is completely necessary.
20" I would find wheels better than 18" or even 16".
If there is no really light folding wheel below 10 kg and I only use it as you have, then it should be at least inexpensive.
I just researched for a minute. There are folding bikes below 500 €, which are actually very heavy and I fear the quality remains on the track.
The Tern Link D8 would be a compromise, although it has a chain connection – which is basically good, but a hub circuit would be more appropriate for your application.
The Tern Link D8 weighs 13.8 kg and is offered for 840 €.
This Model Tern Verge D9 might also interest you 12.8 kg 1250 €.
This does not represent a recommendation from me, it is only on the basis of a short search.
I can't give you more for lack of my own experience on folding wheels.
@Hayns I want a new folding wheel for daily commuting to work because of the free take on the train. For the way back and forth together I would run a day without a bicycle if I run quickly
I have a (other) R&M pedelec myself and must say that I am not convinced of the price and performance of the brand. I would therefore no longer buy this brand and would rather go to another brand like bromopts. I don't know if their quality is better.
@tommgrinn what quality defects did they notice?
The paint is hypersensitive. Had this heard but never really thought how critically sensitive he really is. After a year, you can see where the frame is usually the material-encased castle, and I have always handled it very carefully.
My wheels had hit the back and the front when they were delivered. At the front only optically but nevertheless annoying because always in the field of view and at the back only from approx. 25 km/h but should not actually occur.
Cable of a brake runs exactly in front of the front light and throws a beautiful shadow.
The baggage carrier sits in the middle of my girlfriend's R&M bike. Even with rusted bikes on various lantern masts, these are beautiful in the middle. We thought the frame would be distorted or so no design, there are only manufacturing tolerances (from about 2 to 4 cm out of the middle!).
The handles are not screwed but only adhere to the handlebar. It can be corrected several times, but with time they are still moving.
With my girlfriend, the belt was ground on the engine case. Not much, but you heard. It came out that R&M only installed the cheap gates wheels and the Franzs can have them (because they are so stupid-dissolved) on the housing – you have to live with it.
The pedals were also heavily worn after a year and we only drive in the city.
My front brake had already fixed after half a year. She has now worked for 1.5 years without any problems after a walk – so she has already missed fat or something on delivery. Same game with my girlfriend on her bike.
My bicycle seat has been constantly adjusted although already attracted with the highest permitted torque. At some point, the workshop then refurbished with some friction paste.
Springed saddle support (simple version) had to be replaced after half a year for warranty because the seals were broken. My friend rats when I sit on it and feather, because there are clear twists on the shaft. Since the suspension does not spring in the light weight of my girlfriend anyway, my girlfriend does not want to do the effort to exchange.
The frame opening/frame lock (for the belt) is not centrally designed. Therefore, the wheel is also difficult to remove when changing tires. If my next belt is a little smaller (always gives manufacturing tolerances), I will not be able to mount it. But the guarantee is already over and now it is still working.
Saddle/lock pockets are constantly going on when you really try to get the castle back inside. With my girlfriend, the saddle bag is not usable because it collides with the luggage carrier.
The frame battery bag that was on the bike has fallen apart from me although I have used it super rare. But was exchanged for warranty.
Conclusion : I would never have thought how much can be jacked on a bike and that at prices above € 4,200. I can't even say "a Monday bike" – there were even two.
I didn't know. There is the CTX strap and sprocket, which is even installed in the cheap Cube bikes and then the cheap version CDC (Commute). She's keeping less Nm.
Was also very disappointed. We needed reliable eBikes as we were able to move surprisingly fast. Too much left me on the supposedly good reputation. For about 800 € cheaper I would have got a cube bike with even better components. Afterward, you're always smarter.
Wow, that's a huge amount. I did not know that Gates has a cheap belt variant and would not have expected a manufacturer to incorporate it and to be a quality conscious.
Thank you for sharing.