Replacing silicone sealant in shower, which statements from tradesmen are correct?
Hello everyone,
I'm desperate because our silicone sealant in the bathroom urgently needs to be replaced. I've attached pictures, and now I've received several responses.
One person thinks we need to use anti-mold spray in the joint, it will dry out a bit and then new silicone will be applied directly on top, it's not a problem if it's still a bit damp behind it!
Another wants to kill the mold with a hot air dryer and dry the joints at the same time!
Yet another person just wants to scrape it out and re-grout it immediately after cleaning the joints.
Another person says that if mold spray is necessary, then it is sprayed on, then rinsed (I wonder where the water goes when it is rinsed) and then it has to dry out first and then you also treat it with a hot air dryer and only the next day you remove the silicone.
I'm wondering if it's even allowed to use silicone products with chlorine when chlorine and vinegar, which are in silicone, aren't supposed to be used together (at least when cleaning at home)?
Isn't a hot air dryer potentially harmful to the material behind it, including any insulation?
Then I wonder, when the mold spray is rinsed out, where does it go without silicone? Into the grout? Then it would be under my shower tray, and since the tension joint is gone, it would just smell of chlorine, right? And is it okay to use mold spray and re-grout within a short time of each other on the same day?
I need some experts here. By the way, I have anxiety, which is why I'm asking so much. Maybe I'm worrying too much. I'm afraid I'll have some kind of long-term chemical reaction here, from the mold spray and vinegar in the silicone, and it'll keep evaporating.
Thank you
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If after removing from the old silicone mold is present on the tiles, it can be removed with a coarse sponge. Use special anti mold. There is no chlorine now.
In the new joint then use a silicone that already contains an anti mold additive.
In any case, the joint must be absolutely dry before the new joint. And everything that’s loose must be gone.
I wouldn’t treat mold with the hair because the spores are distributed in the air when that is done you should definitely not stand next to it.
However, I do not see such tiny areas as in the picture as dramatic.
So it’s on the one side to the left of the shower (the picture where it is most) already to see the mold or the dark probably behind it is to share, you just don’t know how deep. The dark is probably already almost 2 years but have now seen the cracks in the silicone, also exactly there and therefore it must be done. Is it not bad when mold spray is used with chlorine and then a silicone with anti mold smells like vinegar, does it not react with each other and develop poisonous vapors? I let this be done by nem acquaintance, I will not renew it myself and this told me he must get it out first, see if at all or how much mold is in the fuge, then possibly mold spray, replay, let dry evtl with hot air dryer after drying and then siliconize. Is that right? If little mold, so remove, dry and nri silicone
Take mold spray based on hydrogen peroxide. Spray in and wet after an action time. There’s nothing left to react.
And that silicone smells like vinegar I haven’t noticed for a long time. If there is still, however, it cannot be used anywhere.
Just tell the craftsman to use appropriate materials. Does not make any relevant difference from the material price.
The mold has eaten into the silicone. This is often the case with cheap or even silicone without mold resistance. If you take out the complete silicone, the mold is also gone. Behind it is no more mold. Then, for safety and against spores, again with proper mold spray, wait 30 minutes, wet wipe, dry and pull new joint. Then with usable silicone. Leave 24h dry and ready.
And the chlorine from the svhommel spray does not react with the vinegar in the new silicone? Fear of evtl chemical dampening and am asthma patient and if I only think about chlorine… who knows how long I can’t use the bathroom. Let it also be made by the expert
No, the chlorine does not react with the silicone. It was wiped away. In addition, you take the right mold remover and not what you use for normal cleaning for the shower.
Moin Nadine,
it is always important to treat the mold.
Only spray the joints with mold removers and let them act (so that no spores enter the breathing air when removed).
Then completely remove joint and then treat the joints again with mold spray.
Remove all dry and silicone residues completely.
Then renew the joints with bath silicone (ethyl-crosslinked).
I always use to remove the new joints water with clear detergent and wooden sticks from the ice (magnum or children ice cream)
Magnum are wider when pulling off and children’s ice cream is thinner.
LG
It’s time to start like mold.
3 points
1 heat
2 nuts
3 food
to 1 the silicone joint in the shower is the warmest point for which it sits.
2 nuts coming from the shower
3 foods are shampoo / skin residues.
How to prevent?
1 see point 3
2 Cases ideally after showering just drying off with nem rags.
3 Remove food in which the walls and partition are sprayed with cold water after showering. Nice side effect of lime deposits is not so fast.
to the material.
in the silicone are fungicides inside which leave with time. If fresh mold is formed on a silicone joint, it can be treated and removed with chlorine cleaner. If the mold is a little older, it doesn’t get anything.
would it be my shower I would cut out the silicone joints (do not destroy the underlying seal)
if necessary With a nem normal hair dryer, it should be wet under it and re-silicone immediately.
On tiles usually no mold grows and acc. the photos are also only on the silicone.
The silicone is of course to be removed over the entire surface and to clean the substrate. I could bet this under the silicone is not a mold to see. Maximum on surfaces at the edge of the silicone joint. Just wipe this away.
Then, if everything is clean and dry, treat the surfaces with a silicone primer if necessary and sprinkle a suitable wet room silicone with mold blocker. (Example silicone mold blocker CARE | Conel)
Not every silicone is also suitable for any application. Especially in the area of showers and bathtubs you should place great value on the right silicone.
because the silicone is a maintenance joint, completely out, clean and repel.
The joints are probably only surface covered with mold, so scratch or cut the silicone, make it a little clean and make new silicone joints
I’d cut it all out. If moist behind it I would let it dry out if necessary with a heating fan speed up.
And then retire. with high quality sanitary silicone.
Without chlorine cleaners and so on…
Silicone does not dry, it polymerizes (“hardens”) from: The acetic acid, which is in the most common products, is consumed for polymerization, simply disappears.
Says:
On wet or greasy substrate does not hold silicone, the surface must be clean (also freed from mold), dry and fat-free. Stands on every cartridge.
I would take a fungus remedy that can also prevent new education (for a certain time) instead of killing everything. So pretreat, clean and dry wipes, dry with hot air or wait a day and then put mushroom-inhibiting sanitary silicone in the joints.
Hey, thank you for the answer, so I won’t do it myself, but a professional. He told me that he must be blessing when removing how much mold behind the old silicone is, because it is cracked at the places and the dark is probably already almost 2 years, has now seen it proves cracks. So he would look at removing, then possibly mold spray on it, rinse out, dry 1 day, possibly with hot air dryer after drying and then no silicone on it. Sounds like you say.
I’m just afraid that the chlorine reacts with the vinegar from the new silicone and chemical vapors are formed and generally with my asthma I’m very anxious about the chlorine and the vinegar too, ask how long I can’t get into the bathroom then.
Sounds reasonable. Ask the specialist to take chlorine-free means. And odour-neutral sanitary silicone. This is also structural silicone, by the way, not crosslinked with acetic acid. 🤞
Oki, so because of the combination I can also be chlorinated and silicone (acetic) relaxed and because they already know what they do but what if not long is dried and only wiped off after the mold spray and then no silicone comes directly on it… I was really worried
Relax. Your expert won’t want to do anything… let him do it.
No, I’m not a specialist, but experienced Selbermacherin in house and garden, who likes to be smart beforehand. And understand a bit of chemistry and medicine.
And nothing can happen if chlorine is used to remove mold and then is re-siliconed, i.e. chemical reaction, right? Is probably a normal process or, at least, make this even some on you tube and the drying also just a few minutes. So I can stay calm down to the smell. Thank you very much. Are you a specialist?
Our nose is quite sensitive to most dangerous gases, and it is there, among others. If you no longer smell chlorine, you can assume that nix engravings can happen. Even a little is not tragic. The same applies to acetic acid: ventilate well, stay away and good.
So chlorine does not react with silicone normally? How long do the smells last? Eaty, that’s true… I’ll notice even if I descale the water cooker.
Because of your smell/gases. If he lets the chlorinator ventilate well, everything is good, no matter what silicone. I’m insensitive, but can’t bear Essiggeruch well, he’s also irritating.
They only use a variety of mold spray and he already meant that it smells, but we have a window in the bathroom that leaves open and it would be done after 2 hours. Is that right and because you give me the advice about mold spray without chlorine, do you give me the advice because of my fear and asthma because of the stench or because chlorine reacts with silicone where it is edgy?