Make your own beer?

It won’t work with wheat. Besides, you have to give the wheat back if you only lend it to you, and also return it. For mashing, a certain percentage of barley is also required, because the enzyme amylase is contained in the barley spelts that the starch of the grain converts into sugar, which then becomes alcohol. However, both wheat and barley must first be malted, a complicated process. After the harvest, the moisture content of the grains is reduced by drying to about 15 percent so that the grain does not mold. With unripe grains that are “leached” from the field, you can’t start anyway. For malting, the moisture content must again be increased to about 35 to 40 percent so that the grains germinate. This requires experience or good measuring instruments. The process of germination is then interrupted by the fool. When and at what temperature this takes place depends on the expected result, and requires great experience. The malt thus obtained must be scraped, i.e. roughly ground, and then maize. For fermentation, if one does not want to leave the whole to the spontaneous bacterial sour beer fermentation, a suitable yeast is required, whereby one can choose an obergial yeast which works at about 20 degrees and a subferrous one which is ideal for 10 degrees. The temperature must of course be carefully monitored. Alternatively, beer can also be made from other starchy grains, for example from millet. Since millet does not contain the enzyme amylase, the millet should first be thoroughly bought and then spit into the brewing boiler. The human saliva contains amylase. This works well and also gives good beers how to taste black Africa in some areas. I find these millet eggs excellent with natural fermentation. The same goes with corn or with buckwheat. You can try.