Lohnt sich überhaupt ein eAuto finanziell?

Beim eAuto verbraucht man etwa 15kw/h – das kostet auf 100 km etwa 6 EUR

ein Benziner welcher etwa 5L/ 100 km verbraucht kostet bei 2,00€/ Liter etwa 10€

Nach dieser Milchrechnung entstehen kosten auf 50.000 km

EAuto: 3.500€

Benziner: 5.000€

Nun ist es aber so das die Anschaffung eines eAuto deutlich teurer ist – man bezahlt in etwa 10.000€ für das gleiche Model als E Version.

Man ist bei der Reichweite beschränkt und ist extrem unflexibel daher stellt sich die Frage ob es sich der Kosten/ Nutzen und allgemein finanziell überhaupt rechnet?!

(1 votes)
Loading...

Similar Posts

Subscribe
Notify of
55 Answers
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
mloeffler
2 years ago

Unfortunately, you only have paid yourself “close” or are worth “every case”. I cannot choose both with good conscience, for even if we once How to reward this does not even seem to be so absolute for a cost advantage, with all the e-cars I had previously in my company’s transport park were pleasantly favourable. I would like to say that they were cheaper than corresponding burners, but I would have had to have a respective burner, which was not the case.

But now a few more words about your bill. You give a consumption of 15 kWh or 5l to 100 km, which may be both, in practice, close to a small car. Then there is a 50,000 km speech without a period of time. Further costs will not be taken into account.

In fact, it is necessary to compare consumption in practice for the relevant driving profile. In the case of the e-car, it would be necessary to take into account, if necessary, also proportionally fast charging but still free charging.

It is also necessary to compare the actual costs for insurance. Depending on the vehicle type, this can be lower or higher in the E-car.

However, the maintenance costs and the tax on the e-car are lower.

Promotions must be included in the invoice at the moment, as they will keep the prices for new e-cars up as long as they are paid.

Almost the most important thing is to end. The purchase price is almost irrelevant. He only plays a role for two questions. 1. Can you get him? 2.) How about the interest of the bound capital? It’s going to end. Because the loss of value per month. per km (except for leasing) is only known when the car is sold again. The good news is, for the past, the loss of e-cars was extremely low.

Ultimately, low value loss and very low maintenance costs are what makes the low cost of the e-car. However, energy costs are also lower.

holgerholg
2 years ago

The whole depends heavily on the field of application. If you travel a lot of short distances, the e-car has the great advantage that it hardly needs to be warm. Nevertheless, it is of course necessary to have enough distance that the savings are also noticeable.

It becomes more complicated on longer distances. Here the car should be compared with diesel cars rather than gasoline. If one calculates the electricity costs from home, one also tends to have the cheaper variant. But there is a certain problem with the range. Small e-cars often have only lower ranges. This reduces costs and is sufficient for most people for the way to work, school and shopping. In contrast, vehicles with larger ranges are larger. So you are currently forced to buy a larger car just to get more reach. This increases the purchase price and consumption. While, when you load at home, you continue to drive cheaper than a comparatively large burner, the bill can change if you had taken a smaller model in the case of a burner and the larger e-car had to buy only the range.

The range is very important when assessing costs. I can’t load more cheaply anywhere. Most of the time, the shop is best at home, then I drive long distances, I have to load on the way. While it may be possible to accept the time required for this as otherwise necessary rest, the shop has a strong impact on the costs. Loading on external high-speed rails can quickly lead to electricity costs that exceed fuel costs.

The housing situation also has implications. If you have your own parking space, garage or similar, you can load at home. Anyone who lives in a multi-family house in the city and has no own parking space may never have the opportunity to load at home. Even if you live on the ground floor, you cannot simply put the cable over the walkway. Thus, you may even have to constantly take the more expensive external tariffs. Conversely, you can also be lucky. Some employers and supermarkets allow their employees or Customers free to charge. You shouldn’t rely on it. The offer seems to go back than to rise, but in these constellations – within the scope – you can even drive without energy costs.

One must not forget that a new car has the highest loss of value at the beginning of its lifetime. Since the total cost of the vehicle is calculated, the loss of value of the vehicle has a significant proportion, it is quite financially often useful to buy used vehicles. Since e-cars have recently developed rapidly, many early e-car models are almost worthless today. They already had a small range at the beginning, were partly operated only or mainly with rental batteries that cause permanently running costs, and some batteries are no longer produced. Similarly old burners can drive for a few years. Newer models with higher initial ranges are likely to have less significant value loss. For new cars, this is probably a less serious problem, but if you want to buy a used car, you only have a few more usable e-cars and much more burners to choose from. In the case of the burners, a bargain can be made.

In addition to the usual variants of petrol and diesel, car gas and CNG (earth gas) cars should not be forgotten. Especially natural gas vehicles can also easily drive with 100% biogas and 1kg CNG is currently approx. 1 Euro, Biogas 1,20 (the discount will be reduced soon), but has more energy than 1 l diesel or petrol

Example: VW up consumption per 100km (according to manufacturer)

Electricity: 15.8 kWh (82PS)

Gasoline: 4.2l (60hp) – 4.8l (116hp)

CNG: 2.9kg (68PS)

JoshuaKnobling
2 years ago

You compare apples with pears. The electrical equivalent to a burner with 5 liters of consumption will drive more with 11-12 kWh.

An e-car is also not “limited in range” and also not “extremely unflexible”.

Look, there are serious figures and a reasonable comparison that comes to a clear result: https://www.adac.de/rund-ums-fahrzeug/auto-buy-sale-sale/auto-cost/electroauto-comparison/

JoshuaKnobling
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

You already have to compare comparable cars instead of a very economical gasoline with an average e-car.

Distances are uneconomical with all cars.

JoshuaKnobling
2 years ago

That’s enough. You just want to make the mood for burners. I’m out.

Naseneinrad
2 years ago

It depends on the routes you take back. If you drive only 100 km a month, it is not worth buying an e-car.

Where exactly you can pull the border, I can’t tell you. But: the more you drive, the more you pay an e-car also financially.

What I find very bad is that hardly any models are offered that are really economical, but solid, small, like with smaller battery, which are also really affordable at the bottom. As long as it doesn’t change, or the gasoline prices go up to 5€/liter, as a little driver I won’t think of buying an e-car because it just doesn’t make any sense when a car with a large battery is mostly standing around.

Car sharing would be a sensible alternative. Unfortunately, this is only a failure to implement.

Nordseefan
2 years ago
Reply to  Naseneinrad

If you only drive 100 kilometers a month is worth a car financially not at all.

Naseneinrad
2 years ago
Reply to  Nordseefan

Well, that was now also excessively low, that’s clear. In extreme cases, it can be financially worthwhile if you live somewhere from the shot, but otherwise of course not.

I’m not about calling numbers, but about the principle. At the end of everyone, how much do I drive? I move with the e-car at the bottom or not. What, of course, is not so easy, as it is hardly predictable, what is going to happen in future at prices.

Naseneinrad
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

It is mainly about commuters who travel many kilometers a day. It is worth it in some cases. Especially if you drive 50,000 km a year (that would be 137 km a day, i.e. absolutely no long distance for e-cars), you will have the additional costs for purchase in a few years. It should also be included that e-cars are less maintenance-intensive. The few Euros car tax you save is less important. But this can also change quickly if necessary.

But I say yes: for many people it is absolutely not worth getting an e-car. I am absolutely in your opinion.

Lol34XD
2 years ago
Reply to  Naseneinrad

Dacia jump fits your description

Naseneinrad
2 years ago
Reply to  Lol34XD

Not quite, because still much too expensive. It was in the room that you could buy it for about 11k (if I’m really crazy). But it was clear that this was more a dream than reality.

Tellensohn
2 years ago

Salmon

You have set the consumption very low at 15 kW/h. A Tesla and the other heavy electric tanks are more likely to be 25 kW/h. Unfortunately, lighter electric vehicles with a consumption of only 15 kW/h are hardly available on the market. On the other hand, burners with only 5 l/100 consumption in practice are also actual small cars.

But you’re right. The small electric vehicle costs around twice as much as a gasoline. This makes the annual amortization very expensive.

Even the public charging stations require more and more for the kW/h.

But if you can produce the electricity directly with solar cells, the balance sheet looks a little better. But the high amortization is still the cost balance.

Tellenone

Lol34XD
2 years ago
Reply to  Tellensohn

So the fewest e-cars need over 20 Kwh. My Opel Mokka E needs 14.8 Kwh in summer and 16.7 Kwh in winter. And where do you find a normal burner with 5 liters of consumption today?

holgerholg
2 years ago
Reply to  Lol34XD

5l fuel consumption is actually rare. With diesel I can do it even with a 5th BMW of 2011 with little city traffic, highway max. 120km/h in summer below 5l and in winter above.

The Opel Mokka E is a small car. It is therefore fair to compare it with a small story. For example, if you compare it with a Opel Mokka gasoline, it seems that there are just under 5l.

https://de.motor1.com/reviews/575367/tatsachlicher-Consumptiontest-opel-mokka-130ps/amp/

Tellensohn
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

A little pioneering spirit is there. In 1991, I gave myself an electric cabin scooter (Mini-El) for the work. This has 3 pcs. 100Ah lead batteries in series connection. Consumption was 3 kW/h.

It has retired that the constuction was still faulty and so I bought a gasoline car 3 1/2 years later. Some kind of fun the little one did anyway and unlike a scooter one had a roof over the head and even a radio.

Actually, this “eco-mobile” is a pity only in small series at an almost unpaid price.

Tellenone

Tellensohn
2 years ago

It would be so easy to take a plastic body provided with metal inserts, set a 1200 watt motor, use narrow lightweight tyres and set on a good aerodymaik.Voilà we have the mini-El of 1990. However, the maximum speed was throttled at only 40 km/h.

Instead of 15 for the work route I used 20 minutes (about 10 km over a hill (400 to 600 meters and again downhill). That was the state of electric mobility 30 years ago.

Tellenone

Lol34XD
2 years ago

Unfortunately, this is a test that is defined only over a distance. I’d like to have seen a long-term use in the mixed road, highway, city. Cold trips, etc. If the thing really consumes so little in the long term, that would be the hammer

Tacheles88
2 years ago

With the final sentence, I don’t go compliant, but I also think that an e-car is not really “paid” – but what is it worth?

With 15 kWh/100 km, very few are also approaching extremely economical driving. The ID.3 we had already used 20-22 kWh/100 km.

The lower susceptibility to errors and practically non-existent maintenance is a waste, because many manufacturers naturally make the warranty dependent on regular (overpriced) maintenance – except Tesla, as there is no maintenance book.

You have to look closely and reckon.

P.S.
If the same formula is used for consumption, the consumption of the e-car is €3,000.

Rosswurscht
2 years ago

All in all, it’s a milk girl bill. It is always necessary to calculate this in detail for each individual case, whether it is worth it or not.

Rosswurscht
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

This is your example. You can calculate that. However, these numbers do not automatically meet everyone.

AlbertHnsl
2 years ago

Depends on what electricity you’re expecting. Especially when you load at home, there are special tariffs for charging the e-car, as the electricity becomes cheaper.

Lol34XD
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

Your sample bill is very high for stock contracts. For example, I pay 26 ct/kwh

Lol34XD
2 years ago

Please explain to me how you get at 6€ for 15 kwh to 0.33 ct. These are 40ct

luccy19
2 years ago

No matter how you reckon the E car is more expensive.

Your only rescue WATER the battery makes 300,000 km – it does not

Lol34XD
2 years ago
Reply to  luccy19

I know several drivers who already have 300 – 370K kilometers on the battery

luccy19
2 years ago
Reply to  Lol34XD

What car?

Lol34XD
2 years ago

Right, because the engine does not run synchronous to the power, you always have a certain over- or under-compensation. Promise the battery is always claimed and has no “intermediate glace function” as Tacheless has suggested. As with most hybrids, the wheels are driven by the internal combustion engine, whereby the E-part switches over again and again. But here you have a long-term use as well as a pure electric car

holgerholg
2 years ago

A battery has no input and output. She has a plus pole and a minus pole. The desired current is then tapped and fed into this pole. Thus, it cannot simultaneously load and unload. Visually speaking, an electron must either flow into the battery or out of it, should it both do it simultaneously, it simply stops.

If, on the one hand, a voltage for charging the battery is applied by a generator (with rectifier) and, on the other hand, is retrieved by an electric motor, the electric motor is supplied directly. The battery serves only as a buffer. If the generator produces exactly the required amount of current, it is completely consumed by the engine and the battery remains passive, more current is generated, it is stored in the battery and released when too little current is generated.

In principle, one simply has a direct connection of the rectifier to the motors (+ and – pole) and in the middle there is a battery between the two cables. The current can then simply flow past. A different system with different batteries and switching processes would be possible purely theoretically, but would cost more, be more susceptible to errors and lead to unnecessary aging of the batteries and unnecessary conversion losses.

Lol34XD
2 years ago

This is wrong, the engine feeds exclusively the battery

Tacheles88
2 years ago

The electrical energy supplied by the motor/generator is supplied directly to the electric motors if necessary and is not fed into the battery.
It’s such a funny construction.

Lol34XD
2 years ago

Since the motor Exclusively loads the battery and no wheels Drive it 350K pure electric kilometers

Tacheles88
2 years ago

The durability of the battery of a hybrid vehicle cannot be used for comparison with an electric car.

Lol34XD
2 years ago

Fisker Karma, LFP battery

Lord2k14
2 years ago

There is no answer here: “It depends”

we have a ZOE and it looks like that.

It depends on how much you drive and especially how to drive this km. On the highway the ZOE swallows 19kW at about 110-120km/h

On the other hand, our diesel may swallow 5-6l.

We use the ZOE mainly in the city/village. The ZOE uses 13,5kWh in section. It is worth driving around 12K km a year. This one wouldn’t even get warm and blow 8l.

You certainly took prices from the net. You don’t pay idR. We got 23% discount plus premium on our ZOE. It was as expensive as an equivalent Clio.

In addition, we have a PV system on the roof and refuel the ZOE with the surplus in the summer and we have the possibility to “tank” in the surroundings free of charge (Edeka).

So this is not exactly what we can say. It depends on how much you drive. You have to think about that. But the more demand comes the cheaper it will be. I think we’re on a good way. The batteries are also becoming better and more efficient.

Lord2k14
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

Haha. That’s your question too. Funny.
Many buy it because it’s kind of cool or why. Most of them would probably reach a small car with 50Ps to get from A to B. A car purchase LOHNT is therefore hardly possible. At least the better models.

by the way, I’ve never had to fill in a public column.

Lol34XD
2 years ago

So, whoever gasoline needs 5 liters? That’s hard for Diesel. Rechne with 7 liters, there are already in the more realistic range

Lol34XD
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

So if the 500e 15kwh is consumed, the car is really fucking shit. Drive my Mokka E in summer with 14.8 and in winter with 16.7 Kwh and is larger than 500e

Sandofix
2 years ago

Hello

For the extra price you can buy a lot of petrol, if necessary. Your gasoline is cheaper, you just want from A to B.

Greetings

Sandofix
2 years ago
Reply to  fraggantisch

The H2 vehicle is really in motion, which will also be my next one.

Jack98765
2 years ago

I figured it out for me and it’s not worth it for me.

RefaUlm
2 years ago

For me an e-car is not worth