Light flickers after changing switch, what can I do?
Hello, I replaced my light switch with a new one and the light has been flickering ever since. The new switch is a Bseed Smart Home switch + socket with USB & USB C ( https://amzn.eu/d/62rqvqt ). Before that, a completely normal light switch + socket was installed. I thought it would be fine, so I took the power out of the old switch and socket, put L, L1 & N back into the new construction and turned the fuse on. Now unfortunately the light flickers constantly and the switch doesn't go into pairing mode (for the mobile app) after "holding down" as described. So I took the fuse out again and checked everything (all the cables were correctly inserted) and turned it back on, but unfortunately the problem is still there….
Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
(2 votes)
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Normal switches do NOT have a neutral wire… But your new one does… So it's probably the wrong switch/not compatible… Since no one knows your old wiring or what type of circuit you have, or how the wires are/were assigned, one could only guess… Do your research beforehand and see what you need, what you have, and whether it works, instead of simply thinking "it'll be fine"…
Oh yes, the socket also absolutely needs a green PE conductor! Otherwise, there's a risk of death in the event of a fault with connected devices… It's not without reason that such things should be left to professionals. Smoldering fires, burnt-down houses, or even fatalities can be effectively prevented this way…
N was still there, even if it wasn't used before…
The socket has an earth connection, L, L1 & N were related to the light switch…
Is it possible that the old switch had N=neutral wire… and I mistakenly thought that was N=neutral wire?
The "neutral conductor" exists ONLY with classic neutralization without a separate PE and is now referred to as the PEN conductor in TN-C networks. With separate PE and N, you always have the neutral conductor. So no, if you separate blue and green, you have neutral (N) and protective conductor (PE)…
Either L/L1 are swapped, or something else entirely is wrong. This can't be resolved remotely, though. You have to see/measure it on-site and determine what's wrong. A specialist knows exactly what they're doing… So, get them involved before something or someone gets hurt…
Let me guess, with a glow-in-the-dark screwdriver? The "liar detector" himself? The measurement is taken with a two-pole voltage tester with load connection…
I don't know what you did, but did the old switch already have three wires? If so, where did you get the N from? Because the old switch certainly didn't have L, L1, and N, unless it had an indicator light…
It all sounds inconsistent, and I'm afraid you've seriously confused something here. If it's as I suspect, it can't possibly work that way. But as has been mentioned so often, you only know when you're there and can measure/observe…
I "measured" it with a voltage tester; current comes through the light switch but is not then passed on to the socket… I've just swapped L & L1, but unfortunately it still didn't work.
Hi,
Does this thing have a minimum load? Perhaps it can't handle a 3-7W LED…
Have you wired correctly? You need to run the neutral wire again from the outlet to the switch.
I looked again, but I couldn't find anything about it on the Amazon site.
Hi, so nochmals alle Antworten gelesen, auch, dass Du auf der Steckdose keinen Sagt hast. Da gehe ich mal ganz stark von falsch angeklemmt aus. Da ist ein Bild bei Amazon dabei Check nochmals die Verkabelung.
I uploaded a picture of the required wiring in my answer above. If the socket doesn't work, you've basically wired it incorrectly.
Well, if you have 2x L but no PE, you have completely different problems with the socket.
Otherwise, I suspect that your switch is actually a dimmer that doesn't work with your lamp.
But a ground wire goes into the socket… That was just referring to the light switch. But the funny thing is, there's no power on the socket either, I hadn't even tried that yet…
LEDs cannot be dimmed, I think the switch also has a dimming function