Long exposure without Nd filter?
Hi everyone, I lost my ND filter and am currently on vacation. Is it possible to take long exposures in daylight without a filter (e.g., edit them in Lightroom)? Thanks for your tips!
Hi everyone, I lost my ND filter and am currently on vacation. Is it possible to take long exposures in daylight without a filter (e.g., edit them in Lightroom)? Thanks for your tips!
Good day, Unfortunately, I'm a complete beginner in the field of photography, but I'd like to get started and buy a relatively decent used camera to get started. I've done a lot of comparison shopping and researched used prices, and I've more or less narrowed it down to a few. Unfortunately, I find it difficult…
Hi everyone, My girlfriend wants an instant camera, and I've been doing some research. Since film isn't that cheap, I think it's good to be able to preview the picture. After some research, I've narrowed down my choices to the following two cameras. Does anyone know anything about this and can help me make a…
On my last hike, I fell into a pit about 80cm deep. My Revue 270 AF 35mm camera (38-70mm zoom) was still open. As a result, it wouldn't rewind the film. I opened and closed the camera several times and tried to get the lens working again, but obviously, I didn't succeed. It now keeps…
Hello, I'd like to hear your opinion or recommendation. I'm looking for an all-round camera for up to €500 (approximately €650 with lens). I've currently chosen these models: Nikon Z50 Sony Alpha A6300 Sony Alpha A7R Canon EOS M50 Canon EOS M50 II Thank you for your time and kind regards
I've had my Instax for a while and have never dropped it or anything, but for the past two days, it simply won't take any pictures. It turns on fine, but when I take a picture, nothing comes out (i.e., it doesn't print), and the front light starts flashing orange. I've changed the batteries countless…
Hello
so daylight autumn sun noon without clouds results in Central Europe by light value 11
In the case of ISO 50 and EV Shift -2 and aperture 22 a shutter time of 1ne second is given.
But not all cameras can be “pushen” under ISO 100 not all optics can be hidden on 22 or even deeper or sensors with many megapixels then go into the diffraction and the motif becomes “unsharf”
Tips
many opticians have flat 2″ glass crowns as “muster” under it also glasses for sunglasses. Every year the opticians get new pattern glasses the old migrating into the old glass or even in the basement. In doubt one simply takes some glass pane with
Construction markets or local metal builders/Schlosser may have. Welding glass in grey which is available as 5cm rounds and as 110×90 and 110×50. In doubt, a clear protective glass is included.
Because the clear glass can coat a painter/painter with an RAL grey clear lacquer mixture. RAL 7021 Black-gray applied in a batch-thin (sputtered) can still be photographed or the former center spot filters were built.
Welding glasses are usually float glass with glazing and variable thickness, so the image quality tends to fade softly as well as by massive.
Eyeglass lenses are usually ground optical glass. In the past, opticians have developed filters or near lenses for cameras in times where little was to be done, and this was also produced in the curriculum for opticians until the 80s. Many village optics could not yet have a discounter large chains like Fielmann, Binder or Apollo
It’s all about software, though something more complicated: https://www.adailytravelmate.com
However, you need computing time for stacking the photos.
The only one who knows. 👍🏻
You can add several individual exposures (i.e. a series of images) to Photoshop or similar programs.
Here is a tutorial in English (actual tutorial starts at 5:43):
https://youtu.be/VLFQMeHDRkQ?feature=shared&t=343
Yeah, but it’s not perfect. You should lower the ISO-WERT to the absolute minimum that helps.
Only in very limited scope. When the sensor is overloaded and the image is ripped out, it is simply no longer a usable image content at the corresponding locations where it is particularly bright. Because you can not produce with appropriate post-processing.
What is actually possible depends on many factors and must be simply tested.
I can’t. ISO to 50 and aperture all too, i.e. 18 or 22 (depending on lens) but quite much longer than with this setting cannot be exposed
Overexposure almost does not get out.
So if you can’t get down so far with aperture and ISO that a reasonable exposed image comes out at the desired exposure time, then you can forget that.