Kosten für das erste eigene Auto?
Hallo, seit Kurzem habe ich meinen Führerschein und ich möchte auch so bald wie möglich mein eigenes Auto haben.
Dabei stoße ich jedoch auf unterschiedliche Meinungen, in welchem Kostenbereich sich ein Gebrauchtwagen befinden soll. Ich brauche kein Schnickschnack, sondern ein kleines, gebrauchtes Auto, das für Anfänger geeignet ist und mich ein paar Jährchen begleitet. Mehr nicht. Dabei kamen Vorschläge von 3.000-5.000€, aber auch von 10.000-15.000€.
Was denkt ihr?
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If you are a car mechanic yourself, you can keep the purchase costs and the repair/maintenance costs low, as you can distinguish a bad car from a good car and may also be familiar with the cost of car parts.
If you have a car mechanic as a friend, you may benefit in part. You will then take it as a consultant for your planned car purchase if he wants to help you. Maybe you give him something.
It is not only the car purchase itself, which makes up the price, but also the condition and care of the car, which then with poor selection, entails additional cost expenses, such as new tires, brake discs, spark plugs, clutch etc.
Sometimes it also happens that something is broken that you could not foresee.
You can only reach 3-5 k € if you have a lot of knowledge and skills.
With the help maybe 5-10k €, depending on what you can afford or you are ready to spend.
With over 10k, you should be able to get a checkbooked car. But there can also be other costs.
Don’t forget insurance and running costs.
The costs are not carved in stone, but variable.
Especially since many make mistakes, only the fuel costs and with good luck still expect insurance and tax. But on the one hand, a car has basic costs – e.g. Oil change/brake fluid change is so or so due. Also tires are due every 5-6 years at the latest, no matter how much you drive, because you harden and become rupture = both bad for driving safety! With higher running power, the change becomes due only sooner but not later. Similarly, shock absorbers lift about 100 to 120,000 until you become noticeably softer. Water pump and toothed belts, joint cuffs… and, in the end, one wants to be able to afford another car at least. Accordingly, the Km costs if you calculate realistically and honestly without problems 60 cent and more. In the case of a 1000 Euro car, the loss of value no longer affects – there is “he still has TÜV or has it expired” actually only influence the “loss of value”. Accordingly, the costs per Km are correspondingly lower. If I buy a brand new 100 000 Euro car, I have to count on 15 years of use, massively more per Km… But most of us just see the costs at the gas station and then fall out of all “woods” when repairs arrive – yes, every time 60 cents per Km in an asparagus and you won’t have to worry about it when a gear change, a new water pump or even new tyres are in place – and if the car is over, you have to put up again, even if it didn’t last 15 years but only 12 years
The only 7 years you will pay disproportionately a lot of teaching money, as you have a) no experience in traffic situations, and accordingly b) you are not very unpredictable – who has not experienced certain combinations will not be able to correctly assess you and your possible scenarios that can arise from it. In principle, the successful driver’s license check is nothing more than that you have learned the basic Stvo rules and shields roughly and which could be reproduced in a snapshot and that a driver has not found any basic Patzers in the defined frame (limited time and distance and traffic).
When I look at certain situations, I’m going out of the gas and I’m ready to brake and look for possible evasiveness, you’re not going to know what’s going to happen. Is not a Vodoo or something, but observation and assessment based on experiences in similar situations… Accordingly, you will be able to catch the one or the other scraps or ruin the rim etc. Costs everything. At the same time, a car has a loss of value. Except it is so old that the loss of value in principle is due to the TÜV and is “prepared” with its refreshment. My first car cost $300. Seller told me when I drive carefully, I’m going to the vocational school… The part consumed 1.5 l of oil at 100 Km and after 10 Km the cooler cooked. New thermostat (30 Mark at the time), new radiator cap (Schrottplatz 5 DM at the time) and new fan switch (6 DM at the time) and the overheating I had finished and a coladose – content has tasted, from which I do a little hard in the calculation – we are talking about 50 Pfennig because normally I don’t drink a cola… And the oil loss was done. Simply cut the bottom and cover and cut the “Blechring”. I had a nice thin aluminium sheet. Valve lid down, in the area of engine ventilation, clamped in left and right via the camshaft and valve lid back on it. Ready. Oil loss was history. came from the piston rings, which no longer properly sealed the combustion pressure. This resulted in pressure in the crank drive, which then conveyed the oil to the outside by means of the engine ventilation. After the “OP” the pressure loss was still there, but the pressure could pass past the sheet, into the air filter, but the oil is too heavy and too sluggish that remains hanging on the sheet and again drips back and runs back into the oil drilling into the oil pan. Ready. The part provided 6 years of loyal services – last with my sister for 2 years. How much loss of value did I have? I had saved the money for a new car later after I dumped the “Hörners”…
On average, the first car costs an arm and a leg.