Kodak F9 Ultra löst nicht aus?

Hallo zusammen,

leider musste ich feststellen, dass meine Kodak F9 Ultra Kamera plötzlich nicht mehr funktioniert. Der Auslöser ist ohne Spannung und löst einfach nicht mehr aus. Der Film ist allerdings noch nicht voll und nach meiner Beurteilung zu Folge auch richtig eingesetzt. Bei dem Zähler oben ist das „S“ zu erkennen. Hat jemand eine Idee woran es liegen könnte oder einen Tipp?

Google konnte mir leider nicht weiterhelfen.

Vielen Dank im Voraus und viele Grüße!

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IXXIac
1 year ago

Hello

S is called “Start”. A plaque with QR code is attached to the new camera so that you can load the instructions on your smartphone or view it as a video.

So now someone with sensitive fingers and know-how in a dark bag or a dark room has to open the back wall and feel if the film has been inserted correctly and is transported correctly. You have to feel the perforation on cracks.

Then you remove the film and complain the malfunction or the best to return the camera.

For 50€ there are enough better functioning “Vintage” cameras from the 60s to 70s with uncaputable Paratronic closure and pliers visor (Agfa, Canon, Minolta, Konica, Olympus, Pentax, Penti, Petri, Revue, Cosina, Yashica, Vivitar, Voigtländer) up to “Ventax Pentax”

IXXIac
1 year ago
Reply to  IXXIac

Hello again

So now you fold up the rewind crank and turn back movie clockwise until the crank gets tight, depending on how loose the film has been made in the can, this is at a 36-image film in the range of 45-120° crank angle. When the crank is turned, you can hear exactly whether you pass through the perforation windows of the film.

In principle, the following

  • the film can easily be turned back into the cartridge and the revolutions count > camera probably defective but film probably partially exposed. Therefore, after removal of the film, the transport roller, the transport mechanism and the counter control function. The film is part-exposed one makes a sticker writes the crank rotations on it if you want to use the film rest later and pulls out the film tab with a sprinkler retractor and sees the first 10 cm of the film tongue due to perforation crack or scratch traces
  • the film can be rewinded with a rustling > film roll freewheel and film completely in coil. The camera must then be cleaned and repaired to the service and there. Because film is torn out of can as far as the perforation is torn there one cuts off film and a plug-in tongue (the pattern for this is on the baschnitt) and keeps the film can for use in the refrigerator on the defective section one can use to read traces to the camera reperator. One problem is the possibly small film breaker in the cartridge and lead to the next defect when the residual film is used in plastic cameras. Oldtimer cameras with metal back wall and aluminium stage “shake” such particles from there are possibly “telegraphic strips”. A photographer has an eye on a film platform/printing plate or cleanses the regular.
  • If the film is not turned through with the crank, the crank is released and the camera lock on the rotary wheel must move the crank. If the camera then triggers this is in principle OK out the counter does not do, but that is unnecessary for photographing. So photograph and take film until the end. After that, to complain/replace camera for defective counter

These plastic ameras are in principle technically identical with the disposable cameras in the light-tight cardboard casing.

So they are not built for eternity and after 10-15 films worn. The typical amateur consumes a 36 pictures of film a year, so the camera holds at least 10 years,,