Is it possible to prune Jakob Fischer's apple tree extremely heavily?
My parents have a neglected Jakob Fischer apple tree.
This one has a relatively newer branch on the bottom side, about 2-3 years old I would estimate.
Would it be possible to cut down the entire crown above and create a new crown from it?
Or do I upset the balance between root and crown so much that it gives up completely.
For your information, this tree has hardly ever been pruned and also has some dead wood in the crown.
I'd just be interested to see what professionals would say about it because it's already extremely tall and it would be much nicer for harvesting etc.
(3 votes)
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When you throw off the old crown, it will react with explosive growth. You don’t win so much.
First of all, I would remove the stump on picture 2, so that the stalk can grow over.
You can illuminate the old crown and cut back to the moderately old wood, also the tree will react to it, but you can then ‘smooth’ it with cut at the right time. The advantage would be that the holding crown remains with the main branches. Normally there is also ‘pressure down’, so that the tree is more willing to bring even more fresh branches below the old crown.
You can repeat the step if there are enough shoots below the old crown, then you can also discard the old crown more easily.
Only if the tree stands on a strong-growing high-floor base, then you will never really get it small and can hold it – if that is the reason.
If you only want to rejuvenate and revitalize it, then you take back the old crown, as I said, gradually. Use the search engine of your choice and search for rejuvenation cut or refurbishment cut.
You can’t make a half trunk or spindle from a high trunk, as it comes to the base. The harvest from the high trunk is and remains exhausting.
What applies to the cut, I would advise a person skilled in the art because it is not easy with this tree that is not very well grown. Because the more you cut, the more he shoots.
Had a sprout meadow years ago. Besides dead wood, crossing nothing was done about it and still good harvest. Also now at the new residence there are traditionally set old (high stem)Obstgehölze on road and field borders, which nobody cares about. Only after storm or if dead wood becomes at risk, the common acts. Fruits are always abundant and good, without frost damage. Despite some very high ages, the trees are surprisingly vital, “repair” themselves. This year was a very good pear year, plums, mirabells, apples, on the other hand, there was no through frost, cherries only little.
For Christ’s sake, just not. Either you kill him or you build an uncontrollable broom.
The tree is still relatively young. Most likely, it will react to excessive reduction with excessive growth.
It is no longer beautiful because education is lacking and can only be partially retrieved, but it can be significantly improved in several steps over years.
The first measure must be to cut the dead wood clean so that you get a realistic picture of what is living wood in the tree. Then from above (!) begin to remove rubbing branches, to relieve static overloaded branches and to reduce superstructure. This doesn’t have to be nice, the cuts just have to pursue practical goals. Tendentially rather few, large cuts than many small cuts. In the first year, you need to make sure that you do not remove more than 1/4 of the branches under any circumstances in order to avoid excessive re-examination as much as possible.
The cut should be 1. Year on exposure, cut out dead wood, remove rubbing branches, scrape – about 1 / 5 of the assault mass on existing branching.
I would not do more so that the tree does not react with excessive driving growth.
The cut should serve more for the ventilation so that the hairs have more sun, after rain have more sun and reduce fungal diseases.
I liked to refer to Mitforisten -> KarlRanseierIII, douschka, eieiei2, Blumenacker
You can do that.
Most of the trees were refined just above the earth, but there is also that they were highly refined (crown refinement): then you may have the bad luck that the new crown is not the expected variety but a wildling.
Next year I finished a few documents with this Jakob Fischer and a Wettringer Taubenapfel.
If my parents decide to take this one, I have a few for replacements, so to speak.
The support should actually be right down there as he has a slightly thicker place.
Unfortunately, I just have no picture of the lower part of the trunk.
Thanks for the answer
The stumps on the trunk must be cut back so far that the tree can flood them with bark.
If the dead stumps remain, they are fungal spores and bacterial scavengers.
I wouldn’t change anything at the tree height.
The tree has grown so high because the base (and the owner?) wanted this.
You can only expose the crown. If this crown remains uncut next year and wears leaves, it becomes a opaque anger. And the tree becomes susceptible to windbreak because a wind impermeable crown sits like a sail on a high mast.
All cuts with more than 10 cm diameter should be avoided because such wounds are probably no longer overwalled.
The new branch below is probably driven out because the crown – lack of care – begins to travel and has lost expellability. Especially in the case of refined trees, the merging is an inevitable consequence when the annual construction and care cuts are absent.
After cutting, the tree should be in equilibrium, so it should not have an overweight on one side.