How many ohms does the resistor have?
Hello dear electricians,
The resistor in question belongs to a power supply and is unfortunately burned out.
I simply calculated the value using an online calculator and came up with 20.8 ohms with a tolerance of 0.5%. My question is: Is this value correct? What value did you arrive at?
Since a resistance of 20.8 ohms is very rare (if not impossible) to find, would a 22 ohm resistor also fit?
Next question: What is the power of the resistor? Its diameter is approximately 4mm and its length is about 11mm. Is that 1W?
Thanks in advance!
(No Ratings Yet)
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The 20,8 ohms vote. The low tolerance has been installed here, but hardly necessary. I’ve already repaired more often PC switchgear parts, and the resistances I built in were 5% or 10% tolerance.
The performance will probably be significantly below 1W.
Do you know what the resistance is? If you simply install a new one, it won’t get better unless the cause is eliminated.
Thank you for your (to be found only here under this question) detailed and helpful answer.
Very good, so also means that a resistance of 22 ohms is sufficient?
I’ll just take 1W then I’m on the safe side. Judging by size is the resistance 1W. So there are the resistance kits that you can buy on Amazon and elsewhere: https://prnt.sc/kxngY1TofAsI
The reason for the resistance being murdered, I can gather together. The power supply has a maximum power of 250 watts. Since I had installed in the PC ne Graka, but had not noticed the power of the power supply, I simply assume that the resistance was overloaded.
Can’t happen either. PC power supplies turn off at overload.
I just gogled; The graphics card (R7 240), which I have installed, has a rated power of 30 watt… Can’t be overloaded, can it? In the PC have nothing else in it like the motherboard itself (with CPU and two RAM bars), hard drive, CD drive and two fans. This is such a standard HP-Desk part, which actually has no such high performance/draw/whatever.
Far before the power supply has given up the mind, I had measured the power that the PC draws with a power consumption counter for the power outlet, and came at a maximum load (hots video game running) at just 60-70 watts.
It may also be that the HF transformer makes short circuit. Then the FI flies.
Uff, um, okay? Then I’ll ask myself where this is the case. Didn’t see any obvious earthing.
You can’t see it either. *Lach* How should I do best to find the error (which may not exist anymore)?
We can definitely exclude overload. According to the power supply computer, the maximum requirement is only 128 watts: https://prnt.sc/A0QAFlNAFWE
Well, on the primary side, the power supply connects somewhere with its housing, so current flows through the protective conductor and thus automatically on the blue and the brown wire unequally large currents, which allows the FI to fly.
Again true… I don’t know. What could have been the reason? If I connect the PC to a socket and press the power button, the FI will fly.
With another power supply, however, everything works as desired (and the FI remains above of course). Can you make a rhyme of it?
This has a reason why he’s burned. This is certainly not the cause, but the result of a preceding error. It is absolutely rare that only one resistance is simply broken. It will be connected more than sacrificial resistance and protection against further destruction.
I’m aware that this has a reason. I already know the reason. I probably overloaded the power supply. Built in the PC a graphics card, the power supply has a maximum power of 250 watts.
That’s the right statement: you know why… and then the word “probably”. Great. There speaks the expert who judges the performance with the deed (this is truly unique new here)!
This resistance is a metal-film-low-ohm power resistance – or also called “safety resistance”. It’s just gonna get out when something’s broken in the back. Too much power was certainly not because the power supply control would have already locked. Behind it, I think a semiconductor stretched the wings. But you can build up a new resistance… but then you’ll find that he’s using again. Why? Because there’s too much power on the back. You can also bridge him: That would be like the troubleshooting via copper nail on the tractor… where it smokes, something is going!
Just as senseless as changing a fuse if you don’t know the triggering reason: The things are neither for fun in it nor are they going to be fun!
he says everything…
Well, problem is that I don’t recognize the colors exactly. I come to 20.8 ohms with a tolerance of 0.5%.
Rich 22 ohms?
What do you mean about performance?
I would also say that 1W is loose enough.
Good. It doesn’t matter in tolerance. It’s just a power supply.
What do you think of 22 ohms?
I can’t exactly recognize the W. Just look here: http://www.elektronik-kompendium.de/sites/bau/1109051.htm
No value is listed on the board. Only “R1”.