Fahrradnabe hinten defekt?
Bei einem Mountain Bike mit 18 oder 24 Gängen, das längere Zeit nicht gefahren wurde, passiert es öfters, dass man ins Leere tritt. Dabei rutscht die Kette nicht über das Ritzel, sondern das hintere Ritzel dreht durch, so, als ob der Freilauf hinten in der Nabe “offen” ist in beide Richtungen und nicht einrastet, wenn man in die Pedale tritt.
Könnte mir bitte jemand, der sich mit Fahrrädern auskennt, erklären, ob das ein schwerwiegender Defekt ist, der nur durch ein neues Hinterrad o.ä. zu reparieren ist, oder liegt es daran, dass der Freilaufmechanismus hinten in der Nabe irgendwie nicht mehr gut geschmiert ist. Vielen Dank im Voraus
(2 votes)
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Right. It is Freewheel. The problem is like when it’s cold.
18 courses? You mean three times six? Then you have a wreath in the back where the freewheel sits. The easiest thing would be to buy a new one. They’re not expensive.
https://www.taylor-wheels.de/schraubkranz-6-fach-tz500-14-28
At 24 gears, 3 X 8, it looks different. From 8 times rear it is a Boxsitting on a freewheel body.
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/shimano-freilaufkoer-fuer-fh-m615/m590/m756-a/m5100/m6000
If you can also buy, it is not so easy to choose.
You can try to make these locking pawls moveable again with WD-40. Extend the freewheel body and bath in WD-40. You can also take it apart and wait, but no one does that anymore. There is a special tool for this that is barely available.
The cause of these glued freewheels is generous oils of dirty chains. The kneest produced in this way is set in the freewheel.
By the way: 18 different switching combinations are not 18 gears. There are double and triple courses and only about 10 in this case.
Yeah, that sounds like fixed locking blades in the freewheel. Maybe a resinized lubrication, maybe glued with dirt, maybe due to lack of lubrication…
It would therefore be desirable to remove and look at the freewheel, to disassemble and clean the locking blades and springs and to reassemble with corresponding fat.
With the right tool (for this hub!) and a little technical understanding no big act, last its hour. Wouldn’t be anything that I would trust a “I’m taking a tool in my hand” people.
If the pawls do not solve again, the problem lies in the freewheel.
Depending on the manufacturer, one can wait more or less well (detrost, new fat) or exchange it. A complete new rear wheel is not necessary.
Change the freewheel body.
This is simple, you can do yourself with the right tool and doesn’t cost much (even in the workshop if you don’t trust it yourself).
That’s why you don’t need a new rear wheel.
I think it is oil that is missing or it is resinated.
Theoretically, they can wear teeth in the freewheel so much that a new freewheel body can no longer engage in it.
Then a new rear wheel would be due… but this is extremely unlikely.
More likely:
Both problems can be solved by removing the freewheel body and with a bit of WD40 and fresh fat