Fahrradkette selbst reparieren?
Ich habe mir wenn meine Fahrradkette gerissen war das immer in einer Werkstatt reparieren lassen. Aber im Grunde denke ich, dass ich das auch selbst hin bekomme. Da ich es aber noch nie gemacht habe, habe ich eine Frage an die, die damit Erfahrung haben:
Sind die Kettenzangen und die kleinen Gliederstifte/Bolzen in den Ketten genormt bzw. haben die eine Einheitsgröße oder ist das von Hersteller zu Hersteller verschieden?
Gibt es sonst noch was, was ich beachten muss?
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Definitely necessary, a chain rivet pusher.
This allows you to open the chain and to connect it to this chain rivet presser with a special rivet pin. The original rivets in the chain cannot be used for a second time.
It is easier with the already mentioned chain locks.
Note: The chains are available in different widths. This depends on the number of sprockets on the rear wheel hub. There are construction widths 1x (no circuit chain), 5 to 8x, 9x, 10x, 11x and 12x, i.e. a total of 6 variants. The chain locks are also available in 6 different widths. (12 times could only work with rivet pin again)
A completely new chain is not recommended or even impossible if the old chain has been used for >2000km. The new chain would slip through to the, then even partially worn rits when you enter the pedals.
The tools (e.g., chain pliers) are usually universally usable. Can not fit in individual cases (e.g. very old and no longer suitable for new chains).
Rivet pins are manufacturer-specific and since the width of the chain differs depending on the number of sprockets, they must always be observed.
Where most hobby screwdrivers no longer use rivet pins, but chain locks. Here you can also use those of foreign manufacturers if the chain width is observed.
Yes, the bolts are generally the same in diameter, but the chains can be of different width, i.e. the bolt also. Depending on how much gear you have.
When buying a chain rivet you can pay attention. Best watch a few YouTube videos…Many luck
you must see what chain you need:
Chain circuit at the rear 7, 8,9 or more gears or hub circuit.
then it is important how many links are necessary (can be counted).
I always build chains with lock that is simpler and that is also for chain connection.
For separating the old chain you can use an iron saw or a chain separator.
All chain links are 1/2 inch wide, so you always need the same tool.
If the chain is already breaking, it would be reasonable from my point of view to acquire a new one. To do this, you just need to know how many tooth rings are behind and how many links the chain has. You get chains for 15-20 euros and with a new chain you first have no such breakdowns and secondly it will be more supple.
Do you tear chains more often?
I would replace the chain in such a case. This usually does not cost more than €20.
Chain locks are available in different widths, depending on the number of gears. The more gears the narrower the chain.
Yeah, the necklace has been changed. The tears don’t happen to me every day, but several times a year. I’m just a lot on the bike where the material is probably already quite stressed. That’s why getting rid of the bike is always annoying. I thought it was going faster when I did it myself…
Chain care also belongs to that, in the last one and a half years, I drove over 14000 kilometers, and that over stick and stone, as you say, without the chain ever torn to me. Oils also belong to it.
Hm. I drive around 20,000 km a year (mainly racing bike/triathlon). Years ago, I had a damaged chain link that made me sweat a bit because I had to drive home 100 km.
Otherwise, I never had problems with chains.
What kind of necklace do you have? I always take the Shimano middle-class chains; I have only had the best experiences with them. Also in terms of elongation/destruction.