Engine keeps cutting out and idling problems?
Hello dear people,
Drive a Ford Cmax built in 2004 1.8 petrol Duratec HE
The car runs great when it's cold, but as soon as it warms up a bit it starts.
When idling, it jerks until it turns off and is very difficult to start again. The engine's performance also suffers considerably. Sometimes it starts again and runs without any problems, but most of the time the error remains until it's cold. Otherwise, the engine runs great, no jerking or shaking, and it accelerates smoothly. As I said, this usually only happens when it's warm. Only once did it happen when it was cold.
The following have been exchanged so far:
Alternator, battery, throttle valve, ignition coils, spark plugs, tensioner pulley, water pump, V-belt, solenoid valve, vacuum canisters and much more.
All vacuum hoses checked and all leaks, both lambda sensors replaced, no success, put the old ones back in.
Intake manifold pressure sensor or lmm sensor new one installed no success put the old one back in, fuel lines and pressure all measured and OK and much more what I forgot
Nothing is displayed in the error log, neither in Delphi nor in Forscan
I have no nerves anymore, so far I have made every car run
Only this brings me to my limit.
What I noticed when I read out the individual values, I noticed when the engine jerked again when stationary that the values from the accelerator pedal sensor fluctuated back and forth. He has a total of 3 sensors on the accelerator pedal, the first two remain permanently at the same voltage, but the third sensor fluctuates greatly as soon as it jerks. If it doesn't jerk, this value doesn't fluctuate either.
I suspect that the engine control unit is faulty, but I don't understand why. Sometimes it runs without problems even when it is warm.
Unfortunately, I am at the end of my nerves
I am very grateful for advice
I myself learned automotive mechatronics 12 years ago but have been working as a welder for 9 years. I have never experienced such crap as Duratec. My neighbor has had an S-max for 4 years, also a Duatec and only problems. That was definitely my last Ford
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evtl. verdreckter oder defekter luftmassenmesser!?
I have already replaced it and it did not improve anything, so I put the old one back in
Hi, I had the same problem with an Opel Vectra and the previous owner had been to countless workshops and they replaced all sorts of things and then I got it as a gift to repair his heater.
I have a friend who is a master mechanic and we replaced a control unit that was suspected and that I had bought used on eBay.
At some point we found the problem: it was a marten bite on the cable under the insulation material.
He had made sure that he had constantly injected maximum petrol into one or two cylinders and so the vehicle was flooded.
That would then be repaired and then it would run great.
Greetings Markus
Meinen sie den Kabelstrang der zum Motorsteuergerät führt ?
I think that must have been it. It's been a few years since that happened. Unfortunately, I can't remember exactly. I'd just take a close look to see if a marten had been messing with the cables or the insulation.
Drück dir die Daumen und viel Erfolg bei der Suche.
Hmm, I'll start looking again after work…
The control unit has crossed my mind several times, as has the wiring harness, but this time there is no way around it, such a messy job
Wenn er KALT gut läuft und WARM nicht, würde ich darauf schließen, dass das Gemisch nicht auf “mager” zurückfährt und der Kaltlaufregler im Eimer ist ….
Hmm, stupid question: What is a cold regulator? Do you mean an idle regulator?
What I can also say is that when it starts experiencing rpm fluctuations just before it dies and I press the gas, it sounds as if it is only running on 3 cylinders and as soon as it is over 1200 rpm it stops and suddenly it accelerates properly without jerking or anything else. As soon as I let go of the gas the same thing happens again and as I said sometimes it just stops and it runs as if nothing had ever happened.
Cold start regulator – as I wrote
But I think the Focus is too new for this component, so it will probably end up being the control unit.
If you still want to know what a cold start regulator is:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaltlaufkontrolle