Hey, I wanted to cobble together several E27 sockets to equip my LED lights. I read that you don't need a ballast; in fact, it's actually harmful. Can anyone confirm this? What else should I keep in mind? I know that I have to connect the lamps I want to use in parallel.
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It says that if you want to cut the LED strips, you have to attach a connector. But there was only one connector in the package for the whole roll. Does anyone know how to do that? LG
Hi, how can I rearrange the following equation for c metal
Or rather, does every flash of lightning you see strike somewhere?
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Lamps with E27 socket are generally designed for operation directly at mains voltage.
The driver (“stop device”/network part) is included in the LED light source.
On the other hand, this looks like LED lights with low voltage (socket G4,…) or built-in spots.
In the case of E27 connections, care must be taken that the outer conductor is always connected to the foot contact.
What are you doing?
Basteleien with mains voltage can also get started quickly after the necessary technical knowledge…
Hey, thanks for a constructive answer. What do you mean with foot contact? Unfortunately, I don’t know 100% about electrics, but I were there before to use forums and let that go. I want to build a special interior; go towards art. Conventional light chains don’t get me there. And I need the expertise.
I know how to implement the parallel connection in general. But I have only two wires as far as I know. A third does not exist at least according to my sketch. You mean the earthing, right?
At least 230 V are used.
Such a bulb has 2 “connections”, the thread and this contact at the bottom. In the socket it is called one “thread contact” and the other “foot contact”. See also here.
It is important that the outer conductor is always connected to the foot contact, since when a light source is turned out, the thread could be touched while it still has contact. If the outer conductor were to be in contact, one would get an electric blow.
If this art object is plugged in at the end with a plug, the polarity can deviate again, but internally I would still wire it so.
For wiring in the inner, a flexible jacket line, e.g., oil flex, would probably be offered. For connecting the lines and for branching off the bulbs, small branch cans might be quite practical, e.g. Spelsberg Mini 25.
For example, Wago 221-413 would be offered for clamping flexible wires.
In the case of the sockets and all lines that somehow get out of the construction, the strain relief does not forget.
The socket itself usually receives only 2 wires, the outer and the neutral conductors exactly.
Whether you need a protective ladder somewhere depends on the protection class of your design.
And as you have already written, let someone look over it.
yes could end bad.lg
E27 bulbs always have their own ballast intus, that is standard! Just because the previous bulbs with E27 are designed exclusively for 230V.
Thus, you can and must always switch E27 LEDs parallel without any ballast!
Ergo: E27 -> 230V, directly on the net, in principle!
If extra ballasts are required, no E27 must be used!
E27 sockets are always connected in parallel. The lighting means are also designed to fit into this base.
What is the question?
No, there are pears that are not connected in parallel. What the question should arise from the content of the question which does not ask “parallel or not parallel”. So read again, please. 140 Coin responds rather in the direction. Yours aren’t helpful.
A switch would make sense. Or always turn on and off via plug or fuse?
E27 always wired in parallel.
Do you mean switch or ballast? Coin said the ballast was installed in the LEDs. N switch clear, I’m sure I’ll make it to + off.
For bulbs with base E27 you need NO additional external ballast. They are installed in the bulb itself, if necessary.
So on-off switch and good 🙂
*Confirmed*
If the bulbs are designed for 230 volts.
Coin means ballast is part of the pears. I did not refer to parallel or not parallel 🙂