Connecting circuit board solder points?
Hello, as you can see in the picture, I tried to connect solder points together. Unfortunately, I didn't succeed. The connection is solid, but when I measure the voltage, there is uneven voltage at various points along the connected track. I'm a complete beginner and would appreciate it if someone could explain to me or link a helpful video on how to connect solder points neatly so that the circuit works well. I use the following solder: https://amzn.eu/d/inWeiZB
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First learn how to solder properly, what you see in the picture is absolutely HORRIBLE.
Take a wooden board (20×20 cm) and a box of thumbtacks (bare, without a plastic coating). Draw a grid with a pencil. Push a thumbtack into each intersection. Then take a solid cable, 0.6 or 0.8 sq mmÂČ "bell wire," strip it of insulation, and cut it into pieces so that you can connect one thumbtack to the other. Now place a piece of the wire on the thumbtack up to the next and solder the two together. This will give you the right "feel" for soldering. Before you attempt soldering, read the first-year electrician's practical course, so much for that.
It is hardly sold anymore, but if you start you should buy a roll of lead-containing solder, usually as a combination Sn/Pb, so tin lead
https://eleshop.de/hochwertes-lotzinn-60-40-bleihaltig.html
It is available in various alloys
The delta behavior also gives you a better feeling when working with lead-free solder, as it has a significantly smaller delta behavior than lead-containing solder.
Bleihaltiges Lot? FĂŒr einen AnfĂ€nger, der wahrscheinlich in seinem Kinderzimmer lötet.
Ansonsten ist die ErklÀrung OK
Ich löte seit 1993 bleihaltig und bin erst letztes Jahr auf bleifreies Lot umgestiegen. Habe bis heute keine Krebserkrankung und keine Bleilunge bekommen. Ach ja, einen Lötrauchabsauger habe ich bisher auch nicht verwendet. Wer so viel Angst vor allem hat, weil es vielleicht “Giftig” sein könnte, der sollte das Löten vielleicht ganz lassen und sich ein anderes Hobby suchen, wie z.B. Stoffballen stapeln. Das ist gĂ€nzlich ungefĂ€hrlich.
As long as you wash your hands afterward and don't suck on the solder, it's safe. Lead-free solder isn't particularly suitable for laypeople, as they have difficulty assessing the quality of the solder joints.
MeinŽ ich ja. Verbleites Lot ist einfach in der Handhabung und die QualitÀt der Lötstellen leicht zu beurteilen.
Lies meinen Beitrag bitte nochmal.
However, the delta behavior of the metal lead cannot be replaced by anything. I did my first soldering work when I was 10 years old. Back then, there were no lead-free solders. Unfortunately, lead cannot be replaced in soldering technology. It's certainly a somewhat questionable material. But it's now indispensable in soldering technology.
There are solutions with lead-free solders, but the metals they contain are just as harmful as lead itself.
As a child, I used to collect tire weights from gas stations. I melted them down and used them to cast my tin figures. Later, I sold them at flea markets, painted or unpainted. Even in the colors of the day, there were materials that would make you tear your hair out today.
What happened? I'm still alive today, no damage, no long-term effects, nothing. Remember the old version of the protective coating for wood, Xyladecor? It contained carcinogenic substances. It was taken off the market and the substances were replaced. The people from back then are still alive today. Or the old version of the weed killer UntrautEx. It even contained substances that could be used as explosives.
The list goes on and on.
Hello,
your soldering iron is set too cold and you are using too much solder.
And if you want to connect multiple points, I would suggest taking a thin, bare wire, bending it where you want your circuit to go, and soldering this wire to the points. This will create electrical connections.
So mache ich es. đ
Hallo,
So sieht das nicht sehr schön aus.
Du musst mit DrahtbrĂŒcken arbeiten, so dass Du immer einen Lötpunkt zwischen Bauteil und der DrahtbrĂŒcke hast. Es gibt sie Platinen auch mit Leiterbahnen, die Du dann nutzen kannst, und an den Sternen, wo sie nicht weiter gehen sollen trennst Du die mit einem Cutter auf.
Such circuit boards are used to mount components. The connections are also created using "components," which are wires. These are also inserted through the holes from above and then, if necessary, bent to form the component to be connected.
For me, these perforated boards are far too expensive. I 3D-print plastic boards with holes and wire them underneath with bare and insulated wire.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlbKUWbxmPE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04akSlHSR0g
the solder looks reasonable
The board you are using is more for laboratory circuits and experimental setups
which could be helpful if you use enamelled copper wire or if you prepare suitable cables (wires)
What strikes me about the photo is that the temperature was chosen too low (or preheated for too short a time), and too much solder was used
the solder should flow and not look like glued
continue practicing (perhaps without the components at first) so that you get a feeling for how the solder behaves at different temperatures and how it behaves at different heating times
You can also influence the area that is heated with different soldering tips
So wie hier auf den Bildern gezeigt:
https://www.multi-circuit-boards.eu/fileadmin/pdf/glossar/lochrasterplatine_loeten_www.multi-circuit-boards.eu.pdf
Draht zurechtbiegen und auf passende LÀnge schneiden, auflegen und dann die Lötpunkte setzen.
When I measure fresh solder joints with the tips of a multimeter, I always get fluctuating results, as there's still some flux on the surface that doesn't conduct current. If you measure on the top side of the components, you get much better readings.
schau dir am besten ein paar Löt-Tutorials an. So wird das sonst nichts. Und das Lot kannst du gleich in die Tonne werfen. Damit kann man nicht löten.