Beste Kamera Einstellungen für die Canon eos 700d für Eishockey?

Hello

the 700D is far too slow for hockey in action even behind an EF 70-200/2.8L. But the said optics makes it easier/simple usable images for knisper.

So the professional “Trick” is;

• EF 70-200/2.8L USM buy and install to 700D if the budget is short an EF 70-210/3.5-4.5 USM (costed used 1/5tel). Of course, an EF 70-200/2.8 L IS USM would be “better” but it costs twice.
• Auto ISO first without limit (better roughened than wobbled) is required to deliver full format, since ISO 3200 is still available at JPEG OoC for RAW/CR2 and also ISO 12800
• Automatic shuttering (Tv), mechanical shuttering time
• AI Servo AF
• trigger priority

The professional trick is one can choose the closing time to the Frezze depending on the motif, then wander ISO and Blend up and down. The lower the ISO the more image quality, the smaller the aperture the larger sharpening depth fields or feast rates.

Professionals work with ISO automatic and closing time as well as aperture manuel so you can react to any situation.

So first you have to measure the available amount of light or calculate zb on the previously made images.

Then you have to ask customers what image quality they want/pay and what motives are paid. The group image, Shakehand’s player portraits, criminal offenses, all up to 1/125tel closing time should be able to deliver the 700D at Blende 4 to 5.6 in a qualitatively proper manner.

Even goal situation if you first sight the goal and wait the camera almost unmoved until the hockey stick passes and the shot lands in the net. The point is that you have focused the goal before the shot and wait until the shot comes to Focus.

After all, Puck does not see in the picture but the action of player and goalkeeper with “Speedlines” in the fast movement zones (arms/ hands, hockey stick). After some 100 pictures you can analyse which situations are necessary for the freeze. You can see if you can move correctly to the point.

You can learn to work industy with the left eye you can see the environment with the right as a lookout. You have to see seperat with both eyes and “think” but the follow-up action with the camera syncs that takes a few minutes of training, then you can. Start with 70mm and then increase to 200mm

Ice halls are illuminated at league games with 1000 lux (descript) but because of the great dynamic between ice area and player on it is the correct exposure “tricky” you could make a light measurement or make a spot measurement on faces (threshere). 1000 Lux Hall Light usually gives the hot

Blend 2.8 x ISO 3200 gives 1/500tel closing time. This is still OK at Eishockey for a freeze of gliding players or flying ice dust you need 1/1000tel to show Puck sharp but usually easy Oval is necessary 1/2000tel up.

The problem with hockey is

• there are mostly light islands at the gates
• there are often rough mixed light with halogen (gelborange) and nitro steam (greenpurple)
• in training work is usually 500 or only 250 lux for Bambinis

That is why the 700D is just an emergency solution for hockey you take a 5DIII with EF 70-200/2.8L if you can run at the edge of the field or an EF 100-400/4.5-5.6 if you work from a fixed seat in the Tri stage. You can precalculate this or find the optimal position of optics in the hall plan.

The beautiful is the 5DIII has a sporty autofocus, a real seeker with a matte disc (one sees the chosen sharpening point in the seeker before triggering and not only in the backview) and can be used up to ISO 12800 (paper full format)

Blend 2.8 x ISO 12800 gives 1/4000tel closing time

Blend 5.6 x ISO 12800 gives 1/1000tel closing time

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