Exposure time for night photography?
Hello
When I take photos with a tripod, I choose the aperture and exposure time by experimenting so that the image looks appropriate on the display.
I also want to take night photographs, holding the camera in my hand. I realize that's inconvenient. However, I have a neck strap with the camera, which I can hold taut while pressing the shutter button. While it's not as good as using a tripod, it's pretty close.
What about exposure times for handheld cameras? Especially in my case, with a neck strap for night photography.
I just need a rough value to start experimenting with. I'm not very experienced with manual mode, and I find the presets (SCN) unsatisfactory for handheld night photography.
(Sony RX100 IV — Sony a6000)
Thanks for the answers
greeting
(1 votes)
Loading...
Nope. It might be possible to avoid a small bit of wiping, but long exposure times like on a real tripod you can kink with it.
As has already been said, 1/ focal length (* crop factor). 50mm on Sony APS-C should not be exposed much less than 1/80. Then, however, if present, objective stabilization is added which saves about 2-3 apertures. You can then double the value 3x to 1/20 or 1/10.
Then stop it. Doesn’t need a human. If you can simply put on A, then something will also be done without having to worry.
Exposure time would be 1/30 sec at a 30mm KB lens. With picture sticks you can take much longer out of your hand or also with a single-legged tripod, which I would recommend and not this strange strap.
During night recordings (for example walks in the residential area), I often have these washed light sources. I’ve heard of it that from aperture 11 this light will become even (star-shaped). In program mode A, I cannot set a diaphragm.
I’ve got my tripod on cycling trips. During walks in the city, the (if necessary) tensioned strap to little wobble.
If you don’t have a tripod, put the camera on a wall, park bench or the like – this is more shaky than your belt.
However, A (or AV) is to set the diaphragm. Whether the light really forms a good star depends on the objective. The star also forms earlier than f11, only it becomes stronger and stronger, with larger apertures.
In the case of unstable cameras/objectives, the rule of thumb, as has already been mentioned here, is 1/combustion width (based on small image/complete format), the maximum exposure time, which is still free-handed halfway without blurring. At 50 mm focal length, for example, 1/50.
In cameras with image stabilization, it is also possible to achieve significantly more, depending on the stabilization performance, so that this rule is no longer necessarily valid in modern cameras.
With night photography from the hand with digital cameras one can say as a general approach:
If it’s too dark, you won’t be around a tripod. A neck strap will not bring you anything at exposure times in the seconds range.
As a rough fist formula you can say 1/ focal length is the maximum exposure time you can photograph on your hand.
With image stabilization, this can also be longer, which you are particularly sparse (because it is cold for example) it can also be shorter.
To ensure that you still get enough light on the sensor, you will usually have to photograph with maximum open aperture and balance the rest over the ISO.
For example, the image was created with the Samyang 35mm f/2.8 at the open panel, 1/30s exposure and ISO 3200 … and also with lightning if this is not obvious.
1/ focal length (+ ISO) – I’ll try.
With tensioned strap around the neck, this will surely bring something extra.
Thanks for the answer.
He doesn’t bring anything, you’re the most stable when you look through the seeker and the camera is holding both hands.