3D printer Marlin configuration?
Hi, I bought a new 3D printer two months ago. I've now installed a new hotend, but I just can't get it to register in Marlin. Does anyone have experience with this and can do this for me? If so, here's some information. I have a Two Trees Saphiere Pro. The hotend I got from Amazon back then was this one: https://www.amazon.de/s/ref=bl_dp_s_mw_0?ie=UTF8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=TUZUK.
Can someone simply provide me with a program with the required configurations
What program? Your FW only needs to know how much steps, if other stepper/ritzel, and what a thermistor can access the table (resistance does not run linear) and the rest is by PID where the FW learns in the pressure range in which you work, including fan behavior, with regard to hotend, to compensate for this…
Sorry I’m not so good in the professional language of 3d printer online but said I need to change this in marlin
Yes, marlin must know what is installed for a thermistor for the selection table and, if necessary, the new steps to calculate the delivery quantity correctly.
I get that nich now I wanted to ask if someone can help me with what hotend I have installed
What do you want for the hotend to enter the firmware?
For your new hotend you only have to:
The former is important so that the printer knows the true zero point of the Z axis.
The latter so your printer knows how much energy it needs to keep pressure temperature.
Okay, how do I do that?
Ok I made now he prints but suddenly breaks off or says termal runway
That’s because you didn’t teach him the cooling and heating behavior, and on top do not print with a silicone socket. Your component cooling cools, especially if you don’t have a silicone socket, your nozzle also cools off extremely. This must be compensated. The FW recognizes this as an unplausible large heating requirement, because it could also be that something about the Thermistor cabling is going to happen or something. And then that thing would eventually come up in flames… Therefore, when the FW driver thought of something, my first printer was a “brandhot” part 2013… in this respect, a control logic is programmed in pure form, which monitors the heating requirement. If you were to print without a component fan, the problem would be “disappeared”. Also with silicone socks. Your FW must first be “angelized” by means of PID (Gcode M303), how quickly your hotend heats up and how slow or inertia it reacts, on the one hand, to enable the rapid reaching of the temperature and on the other hand to avoid the so-called overshoot. Furthermore, it learns something about how the hot end is in operation (heat demand for maintenance). It is therefore also recommended that realistic scenarios be made (temperature and component fan, as is the case in most cases). Also gives videos. Have a good one on the subject here link…!
That means you haven’t done your PID tuning yet, your printer controls the heating element and the temperature change doesn’t match what your printer expects.
https://youtu.be/h9Rdid-T-Gw
Then I would just remember that you accidentally selected the wrong COM port or too high a baudrate.
No
Do you have another program in the background that accesses your COM ports?
Next problem prontface does not find the printer-> Windows says he’ll find. Bitrate set correct com connection everything you want