Hi,
I wanted to print something with my new 3D printer today, but somehow the filament doesn't want to stick (see picture)
What can I do about it?
Please help
LG
(1 votes)
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I also bought such a golden plate, strange way didn’t even keep PLA on it.
I haven’t figured out how to get this record. I should have taken the black one.
I’ll try the Sv08 on my Sovol Sv03. It’s just incredibly good. There’s nothing wrong with it. PLA, TPU and PETG have been printed with it several times. There’s never been anything wrong.
First of all: thoroughly clean the pressure bed.
In the case of textured/rough printing plates, this is actually best done with normal dishwashing agent and warm water.
Simply rinse over the sink and clean, for example, with a soft sponge (it should of course be an extra sponge that is only used for it. Of course you do not want to have food/fat on the printing plate, or plastic on the dishes and the food).
In the case of smooth pressure beds, alcohol (such as, for example, isopropanol) is usually sufficient, but in the case of the texturized pressure beds it is possible to deposit fat in the depressions where it is not easy to get out. With alcohol, it’s more like getting it from the plate. That’s why water works so well here with detergent. Rinsing agent is made to release fat so that you can flush it with the water completely from the plate.
In between, I also wipe off my printing plate with isopropanol, but I also regularly rinse it completely as described.
Of course, you should also avoid putting directly on the printing plate so that it remains clean for longer.
If there are still problems after cleaning, you should check again the Z offset, leveling and slicer settings for the first layer. You should also adjust the temperatures with the data on the filter coil.
In addition, it can help to preheat the pressure bed a few minutes before the printing process, so that the temperature is more uniform. The printer usually measures only one or a few places, so it can be that not all areas of the plate have the set temperature directly. Therefore, preheating can help that the temperature is somewhat better.
Especially after the last misprint, you should make sure that the nozzle is clean. When plastic hangs on the nozzle, it can happen quickly that further plastic remains adhering to the nozzle and is thus pulled from the bed.
Either buy other/new print bed or use sticky spray.
I’m not a fan of chemicals and would rather grab another/new print bed.
Good luck.
Customize the printer new levels and z offset. Clean the pressure bed with isopropanol to remove fat.
Then it should go again. There is also a spray for PLA, which you spray on the plate and ensures more stability. It’s not a glue.
This is also possible with acetone
Only if you want to scrap the coating the same! acetone is too aggressive. And isopropanol dissolves fat and dilutes it, but it does not take it too. In the darkest case, the fat film is thin and evenly distributed on the bed… Better is not to rinse back-fat dishwashing agent (cheap) and water well. Any residues can then be purified with isopropanol. But acetone is a complete NoGo on coated plates…!
Not only “can” damage the coating – acetone would dissolve the printing bed coating (PEI) virtually directly, so the printing bed should not be cleaned.
No
aceton is too aggressive and can damage the coating
Glass cleaner should also go or alcohol towels. It’s not so thorough.
Is there anything else I can use?
Could be on the wrong filament so try a bit there
But have quite normal PLA actually needs flaps
Another PLA
What settings?
What slicer do you use??
PLA is not like PLA
Just like a car is not the same car
Then you can change the nozzle and if it doesn’t work then you should order a new one
Maybe just try with the right search terms !? I find at the moment minimum about 150 entries via Google in any forums etc as much as possible, as I said if this should already overwhelm you, just to 10000% false hobby for you
Furthermore, you need poor poor tuck don’t be great to wonder if you don’t think you should really help link if you keep getting all the information out of your nose if you expect a reasonable answer, you might want to formulate some reasonable question, but you can’t do this here and in other possible forums wrongly canceled so much only once
How old are you?
12-13?
From behavior, however, you can certainly not be much older
But probably this is also perhaps the completely wrong platform here also for me, mostly rs is only here from Kiddis and so-called No Brainern
As I said, no one forced you to help me but yes I don’t know myself and I’m stupid because I might have found no help on google or other platforms so if you don’t understand that then just don’t let you look on this platform
I also don’t know very much where I would have been rude in my answer, but in so far as you should expect any reasonable answers in such a subject you shouldn’t let yourself get any information out of the nose, just not in such initial questions, the fewest maker in the scene have really time for that, I have solved here about 35 printers
In so far as you may not constantly draw corresponding information from your nose may let ðŸ ̃‰, check with a feelerele whether the distance of the nozzle to the bed also corresponds to the thick of your first layer if not then just with the screws and the springs under the bed adjust until the feelerele goes through suction, so that the bed was neatly cleaned with isopropanol with 99.99% purity, otherwise I would increase here
For the first time you can be more polite and now only for you:
the normal plate from the ender 3
has an automatic level system (bi touch or so)
yes
200 nozzle 60 bed
As stated Creality ender 3
Which one again?
how leveled?
bed neatly cleaned!?
Temperatures?
What printer?
again what settings? What kind of underground do you have on your crate? With such information, it doesn’t really surprise me why it doesn’t even want to be with you with simple pla and how printbed leveled!? without all these details, it is almost impossible to help you here in any way reasonably reasonable, and also cura is not the same cura, even if the slicer is hardly likely to play a role here
Just the Hyper PLA of Creality. I use Ultimaker Cura
What filament?
What settings?
Glass ball unfortunately broken
Have you ever tried some of the tips you gave you in your two other questions?
Naja doesn’t want a glue on the printing board
then level the kist neat and makes bed properly clean on an ultrabase adheres almost more to any kram than not at all
Where’d you get this to bed with the glue? Best wood glue? Max comes on glue or something like 3dlac.
I have ne textured pei plate and nen safe sheet of oseq, in the plates I use garnix for good adhesion.
Actually, pla should keep on most heated print beds without anything, you just have to properly calibrate the z offset. If the printer prints the first layer in the air, it can hold nix.
Because? It is easy to wash off with warm water.
The problem is not the original plate
I agree. On a textured PEI plate, PLA should hold without any adhesive. Whenever possible, I use this type of printing plate, and if I apply something, then because I want to prevent it from sticking too much, such as PETG. I have a spray of FormFutura.
But, as I said, PLA adheres very well to these plates, so I would first look for the problem elsewhere.
okay I try
Call customer service
Well, I don’t know why.
Then I can help you more
Would be a bit like calling the cooker’s customer service when you burn the food.
It is more likely that you have done something wrong or that the temperature has set too high.
With 3D printers there are some set screws and features that you need to know to print successfully, so it makes sense to ask such questions to the community. The pressure bed lift is a common problem especially for beginners and poor adhesion can have various causes – and rarely it is the fault of the manufacturer.
Okay.