3D print detaches from the plate during printing?
Hello community, I'm really frustrated with my 3D printer at the moment. I'm experiencing that every second or third print separates from the plate while it's still printing. I print with PLA, a print bed temperature of 50 degrees Celsius, and an extruder temperature of 200 degrees Celsius. These settings have always worked so far.
I have to say that I no longer have the original print bed from my printer… I've since bought a higher-quality powder-coated one made of spring steel. I've actually had good experiences with this one, especially since it doesn't develop elephant's feet as quickly and is easier to clean than the original…
So far, there haven't been any problems with the new disk, but for about 2 weeks now…
…
I've tried everything: cleaning the plate, increasing the print bed temperature, increasing and decreasing the extruder temperature, turning the plate over (the plate is double-sided), rotating the print on the computer, changing the position…🤯 Nothing works… And it just pisses me off (sorry for the language, but…) when I see the print coming off and the printer just floating around in the air somewhere🤯🤬ðŸ˜
Ps when I open the door to the room or open the window to air it out (also recently) a misprint is inevitable.
Could this have something to do with the plate? What can I do to get printing working and fun again?
(1 votes)
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The possibilities are manifold. As you have already noticed, draft air is a big problem. Why is it? Because plastic reacts significantly to heating/cooling with expansion/shrink. If this cooling starts on one side or not evenly, then there can only be stresses and leverage effects on the remaining contact points…! Stülpe a big cardboard over it and you have a cheap house. With this, you have already significantly relieved the ventilation problem and pull-through problem – however, then Raspberry also needs cam and LED lights if you want to observe the pressure…
The other is possibly extructed too little material, which promises a nice look, but a lean first layer prevents elephant feet, but also very fast adhesions… I guess this has to do with it because the plate, if still perfect from the surface, comes to stick with significantly less material. The cleaning of the plate is also a topic – even with changing materials. PLA can also play a role by different manufacturers. A bsp.: I print a lot with ABS private. I evaporate this. In the business we process Ultimaker ABS. Also ABS. I once tried to work with acetone. No chance! Normally, ABS dissolves completely in acetone – for example, super adhesive can be produced. There’s an ad! The only thing that happened: it became “Lederlike”. Thus, PLA varieties usually also react when you are placed in acetone. The problem is, the materials do many manufacturers mix additives pure – different additives. These sometimes counteract shrinkage and thus increase the printability. Unfortunately, not every combination. So if you use different materials from different manufacturers, this can become a problem…
The next is the calibration. It may be that the height is no longer true, so your Z offset is somewhat “moved”. There are different causes for this. Temperature drift, mechanical adjustment, greater contact prellenging…
Cleaning is also such a topic. Fat, by fingering or additive soup are, besides silicones, which you would only get away with silicone remover and are rarer, a theme. You can’t use acetone – otherwise the plate is for the ton…! Also, isopropanol is not so good as it dissolves fat, but also smears. Actually, a non-regreasy dishwashing agent is best. Eyeglass cleaning cloths remove fat films from glasses without back to fat… Something like that is always attached to the Prusa printers. Looks the same and is likely to work very well for glasses or vice versa, I’ll type… 😉
Found mistakes? Do you have a date? Thanks for the star – whatever it may mean…